Front Seat Disassembly

Robert Myers bob at chips-ur-s.com
Wed Dec 20 11:04:40 EST 2006


Hog rings and hog ring pliers are readily 
available at your local farm supply store.

At 11:00 AM 12/20/2006, Geraint Lloyd wrote:
>*This message was transferred with a trial version of CommuniGate(tm) Pro*
>I found this when I did mine:
>http://members.aol.com/c1j1miller/body.html#Seat%20Heater%20element%20fix
>
>as well as Richard's "hawg lunge" thing from the
>archives and the bentley.
>
>I replaced the use of hog ring pliers with 2 sets of
>long nose pliers
>and opened / reused the existing rings. It was doable,
>but a PITA.
>if you can find some hog rings and pliers then get
>them......
>
>Geraint
>
>
>Shame about Phil's DR10
>
>mike wrote:
> > He got banned for drunk driving, I suspect the ban
>is
> > finished now but post ban insurance in the UK is
> > scarily expensive and likely to preclude him driving
> > anything with a turbo for the next 6 or 10 years.
> >
> > His website has changed focus and now concentrates
>on
> > the computer side but all the quattro stuff is still
> > there.
> >
> > http://www.isham-research.co.uk/quattro/index.html
> >
> > maybe we'll see him again sometime, he's been a
>great
> > help to me in the past
> >
> >
> > --- Richard J Lebens <rick-l at rocketmail.com> wrote:
> >
> >
> >> Here is something I saved from Phil Payne.  Anyone
> >> know what happend to him and curbside motors?
> >>
> >> ----- Original Message ----
> >> From:
> >> "isham-research.freeserve.co.uk at pop.pol.net.uk"
> >> <isham-research.freeserve.co.uk at pop.pol.net.uk>
> >> To: pajono at ctconnect.com; quattro at audifans.com
> >> Sent: Thursday, November 30, 2000 2:53:38 AM
> >> Subject: Rebuilding seats
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>> Anyone ever take apart an Audi front seat? I need
> >>>
> >> to replace the
> >>
> >>> bottom cushion in my drivers seat (90 90q), and
> >>>
> >> I'm wondering if this
> >>
> >>> is something I can tackle myself.  It's a cloth
> >>>
> >> non power (but
> >>
> >>> heated) seat if that helps.
> >>>
> >> It's in the archives - search for 'hawg'.  I dumped
> >> out the archived
> >> post and rewrote the whole thing for the
> >> December/January club
> >> newsletter:
> >>
> >>      The Hawg Ring Lunge
> >>
> >>      Many ur-quattros that we see have collapsed
> >> side bolsters in
> >>      the driver's seat (look for foam crumbs
> >> underneath) and/or
> >>      failed seat heaters.  It seems appropriate to
> >> discuss
> >>      repairing these at this time of year - it's a
> >> job you can do
> >>      inside the house, a firm right bolster is
>worth
> >> 10 mph in a
> >>      left-hand bend, and a nice warm bum is lovely
> >> on a cold
> >>      morning.
> >>
> >>      The seats are very easy to remove - a 5mm
>Allen
> >> screw and a
> >>      10mm nut secure the front of the slider and
>two
> >> screws secure
> >>      plastic bits at the rear of the runners.  Line
> >> the rear
> >>      footwell with newspaper so you don't get
>grease
> >> on the
> >>      carpet.  Don't forget to unplug the heater
> >> cable and, on a
> >>      WR, the driver's side seatbelt warning switch.
>
> >> Finds under
> >>      the front carpet invariably include a boiled
> >> sweet (factory
> >>      fitted?) and a couple of pounds in small
>coins.
> >>  More unusual
> >>      finds have included an unopened pack of gum,
> >> toilet
> >>      requisites and live ammunition.
> >>
> >>      Once back in the warm and dry, check the
> >> plastic side panels
> >>      in good light.  Each side is secured by three
> >> little dowels
> >>      pushed into expanding clips.  When these
>dowels
> >> are removed,
> >>      the panels just pull off.  Make a careful note
> >> of the wire
> >>      locations in the heater plug, and undo it to
> >> release the
> >>      wires.  Remove the rake adjustment knob - it's
> >> held on by
> >>      three tongues and you can reach inside the
>back
> >> of it with a
> >>      hook and pull them off one by one.  Don't
>worry
> >> - a new knob
> >>      is only £3.  Once it's off, remove the
> >> adjustment mechanism.
> >>      The back is held to the base by two clevis pin
> >> type fittings
> >>      with push-in clips - just pull them off and
> >> stretch the arms
> >>      out over the pins.  The seat should now be in
> >> two pieces.
> >>
> >>      To remove the lower cover, you will have to
> >> remove the two
> >>      bushes onto which the catch engages when the
> >> seat is locked
> >>      in its normal position.  If these bushes (part
> >> 171 881 299C)
> >>      are worn, replacing them can cure a lot of
>seat
> >> rattle for
> >>      very little money - about £1 a seat.  Code 01Z
> >> is dark brown,
> >>      code 01C is satin black.  If the seat base is
> >> loose in the
> >>      runners, new guide pieces are about the same
> >> price.
> >>
> >>      If the seatback squeaks loudly when wiggled
> >> from side to
> >>      side, the usual cause is a fatigue crack in
>one
> >> or both top
> >>      corners of the seatback frame and this will
> >> have to be
> >>      welded.  Get the welder to insert a supporting
> >> fillet -
> >>      Recaro's design is not the best.  Didn't you
> >> know the stock
> >>      seats are Recaro?  Check out the stickers on
> >> the seatback
> >>      frame.  The rear seat cover comes off fairly
> >> easily - the
> >>      headrest has to be removed to get its plastic
> >> fixings out of
> >>      the seatback.  While the seatback is
> >> dismantled, check the
> >>      cable that operates the catch - it frays at
>the
> >> nylon runner
> >>      halfway down the back.  If you need a new
> >> cable, take care to
> >>      get the correct one - there are six different
> >> part numbers
> >>      based on your VIN number, and even then
>they're
> >> not always
> >>      correct.  It's a good idea to go to the dealer
> >> armed with the
> >>      length of the old cable in millimetres - valid
> >> numbers are
> >>      342, 363, 370, 580, 689 and 765.  Running
> >> repairs can be made
> >>      with bicycle brake cable fixed with double
> >> screw blocks cut
> >>      out of domestic 15 amp terminal blocks.
> >>
> >>      If you're repairing the heater, check the
> >> backrest and base
> >>      for continuity.  The elements are wired in
> >> series, and a
> >>      break in either will stop both from working.
> >> Some people
> >>      have successfully repaired breaks by
>soldering,
> >> but it's
> >>      tricky as the elements are a silver alloy and
> >> ordinary solder
> >>      doesn't work very well.
> >>
> >>      Remove the seat cover you're interested in.
> >> This will
> >>      usually be the base.  You'll need good side
> >> cutters to cut
> >>      the hog rings that secure the cover to the
> >> steel wires passed
> >>      through the cushions.  More of this later.
> >> Count the rings
> >>      you cut and clear out all the fragments.
> >>
> >>      The replacement element (443 963 555S, £98
> >> VAT) goes inside
> >>      the seat cover.  Don't be tempted just to lay
> >> it on the seat
> >>      cushion underneath the cover - it will then be
> >> underneath the
> >>      foam in the seat cover and will hardly warm
> >> your bum at all.
> >>
> >>      Lay the cover out, surface facing down and lay
> >> the
> >>      replacement element on top to get the
> >> orientation.  Note that
> >>      the wires should come towards you - not
>towards
> >> the seat
> >>      cover surface.  Otherwise you'll feel the lump
> >> when sitting
> >>      on the seat.  You can see that you'll have to
> >> cut two slits
> >>      with a very sharp knife in the cloth backing
>of
> >> the seat
> >>      cover to thread each arm of the element
>through
> >> - it comes
> >>      out the other end and the tab is folded over.
> >>
> >>      You actually cut through the cloth backing and
> >> the thin foam
> >>      layer - the element slides in right behind the
> >> old element,
> >>      which stays in place. Don't even think about
> >> removing it.  A
> >>      ruler is ideal for pushing the new element
> >> through.  Cut the
> >>      slits with the knife held over at 45 degrees -
> >> otherwise
> >>      you'll get a small ridge in the seat when
> >> reassembled.  Use a
> >>      knife with disposable blades - it will be
>blunt
> >> before you're
> >>      done.
> >>
> >>
> >>
> > === message truncated ===
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
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>
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> > _______________________________________________
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> > quattro at audifans.com
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> >
> >
> >
>
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Bob
urS6 with RS2 and other mods for sale: http://chips-ur-s.com/S6.html




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