Front Seat Disassembly
Robert Myers
bob at chips-ur-s.com
Wed Dec 20 11:04:40 EST 2006
Hog rings and hog ring pliers are readily
available at your local farm supply store.
At 11:00 AM 12/20/2006, Geraint Lloyd wrote:
>*This message was transferred with a trial version of CommuniGate(tm) Pro*
>I found this when I did mine:
>http://members.aol.com/c1j1miller/body.html#Seat%20Heater%20element%20fix
>
>as well as Richard's "hawg lunge" thing from the
>archives and the bentley.
>
>I replaced the use of hog ring pliers with 2 sets of
>long nose pliers
>and opened / reused the existing rings. It was doable,
>but a PITA.
>if you can find some hog rings and pliers then get
>them......
>
>Geraint
>
>
>Shame about Phil's DR10
>
>mike wrote:
> > He got banned for drunk driving, I suspect the ban
>is
> > finished now but post ban insurance in the UK is
> > scarily expensive and likely to preclude him driving
> > anything with a turbo for the next 6 or 10 years.
> >
> > His website has changed focus and now concentrates
>on
> > the computer side but all the quattro stuff is still
> > there.
> >
> > http://www.isham-research.co.uk/quattro/index.html
> >
> > maybe we'll see him again sometime, he's been a
>great
> > help to me in the past
> >
> >
> > --- Richard J Lebens <rick-l at rocketmail.com> wrote:
> >
> >
> >> Here is something I saved from Phil Payne. Anyone
> >> know what happend to him and curbside motors?
> >>
> >> ----- Original Message ----
> >> From:
> >> "isham-research.freeserve.co.uk at pop.pol.net.uk"
> >> <isham-research.freeserve.co.uk at pop.pol.net.uk>
> >> To: pajono at ctconnect.com; quattro at audifans.com
> >> Sent: Thursday, November 30, 2000 2:53:38 AM
> >> Subject: Rebuilding seats
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>> Anyone ever take apart an Audi front seat? I need
> >>>
> >> to replace the
> >>
> >>> bottom cushion in my drivers seat (90 90q), and
> >>>
> >> I'm wondering if this
> >>
> >>> is something I can tackle myself. It's a cloth
> >>>
> >> non power (but
> >>
> >>> heated) seat if that helps.
> >>>
> >> It's in the archives - search for 'hawg'. I dumped
> >> out the archived
> >> post and rewrote the whole thing for the
> >> December/January club
> >> newsletter:
> >>
> >> The Hawg Ring Lunge
> >>
> >> Many ur-quattros that we see have collapsed
> >> side bolsters in
> >> the driver's seat (look for foam crumbs
> >> underneath) and/or
> >> failed seat heaters. It seems appropriate to
> >> discuss
> >> repairing these at this time of year - it's a
> >> job you can do
> >> inside the house, a firm right bolster is
>worth
> >> 10 mph in a
> >> left-hand bend, and a nice warm bum is lovely
> >> on a cold
> >> morning.
> >>
> >> The seats are very easy to remove - a 5mm
>Allen
> >> screw and a
> >> 10mm nut secure the front of the slider and
>two
> >> screws secure
> >> plastic bits at the rear of the runners. Line
> >> the rear
> >> footwell with newspaper so you don't get
>grease
> >> on the
> >> carpet. Don't forget to unplug the heater
> >> cable and, on a
> >> WR, the driver's side seatbelt warning switch.
>
> >> Finds under
> >> the front carpet invariably include a boiled
> >> sweet (factory
> >> fitted?) and a couple of pounds in small
>coins.
> >> More unusual
> >> finds have included an unopened pack of gum,
> >> toilet
> >> requisites and live ammunition.
> >>
> >> Once back in the warm and dry, check the
> >> plastic side panels
> >> in good light. Each side is secured by three
> >> little dowels
> >> pushed into expanding clips. When these
>dowels
> >> are removed,
> >> the panels just pull off. Make a careful note
> >> of the wire
> >> locations in the heater plug, and undo it to
> >> release the
> >> wires. Remove the rake adjustment knob - it's
> >> held on by
> >> three tongues and you can reach inside the
>back
> >> of it with a
> >> hook and pull them off one by one. Don't
>worry
> >> - a new knob
> >> is only £3. Once it's off, remove the
> >> adjustment mechanism.
> >> The back is held to the base by two clevis pin
> >> type fittings
> >> with push-in clips - just pull them off and
> >> stretch the arms
> >> out over the pins. The seat should now be in
> >> two pieces.
> >>
> >> To remove the lower cover, you will have to
> >> remove the two
> >> bushes onto which the catch engages when the
> >> seat is locked
> >> in its normal position. If these bushes (part
> >> 171 881 299C)
> >> are worn, replacing them can cure a lot of
>seat
> >> rattle for
> >> very little money - about £1 a seat. Code 01Z
> >> is dark brown,
> >> code 01C is satin black. If the seat base is
> >> loose in the
> >> runners, new guide pieces are about the same
> >> price.
> >>
> >> If the seatback squeaks loudly when wiggled
> >> from side to
> >> side, the usual cause is a fatigue crack in
>one
> >> or both top
> >> corners of the seatback frame and this will
> >> have to be
> >> welded. Get the welder to insert a supporting
> >> fillet -
> >> Recaro's design is not the best. Didn't you
> >> know the stock
> >> seats are Recaro? Check out the stickers on
> >> the seatback
> >> frame. The rear seat cover comes off fairly
> >> easily - the
> >> headrest has to be removed to get its plastic
> >> fixings out of
> >> the seatback. While the seatback is
> >> dismantled, check the
> >> cable that operates the catch - it frays at
>the
> >> nylon runner
> >> halfway down the back. If you need a new
> >> cable, take care to
> >> get the correct one - there are six different
> >> part numbers
> >> based on your VIN number, and even then
>they're
> >> not always
> >> correct. It's a good idea to go to the dealer
> >> armed with the
> >> length of the old cable in millimetres - valid
> >> numbers are
> >> 342, 363, 370, 580, 689 and 765. Running
> >> repairs can be made
> >> with bicycle brake cable fixed with double
> >> screw blocks cut
> >> out of domestic 15 amp terminal blocks.
> >>
> >> If you're repairing the heater, check the
> >> backrest and base
> >> for continuity. The elements are wired in
> >> series, and a
> >> break in either will stop both from working.
> >> Some people
> >> have successfully repaired breaks by
>soldering,
> >> but it's
> >> tricky as the elements are a silver alloy and
> >> ordinary solder
> >> doesn't work very well.
> >>
> >> Remove the seat cover you're interested in.
> >> This will
> >> usually be the base. You'll need good side
> >> cutters to cut
> >> the hog rings that secure the cover to the
> >> steel wires passed
> >> through the cushions. More of this later.
> >> Count the rings
> >> you cut and clear out all the fragments.
> >>
> >> The replacement element (443 963 555S, £98
> >> VAT) goes inside
> >> the seat cover. Don't be tempted just to lay
> >> it on the seat
> >> cushion underneath the cover - it will then be
> >> underneath the
> >> foam in the seat cover and will hardly warm
> >> your bum at all.
> >>
> >> Lay the cover out, surface facing down and lay
> >> the
> >> replacement element on top to get the
> >> orientation. Note that
> >> the wires should come towards you - not
>towards
> >> the seat
> >> cover surface. Otherwise you'll feel the lump
> >> when sitting
> >> on the seat. You can see that you'll have to
> >> cut two slits
> >> with a very sharp knife in the cloth backing
>of
> >> the seat
> >> cover to thread each arm of the element
>through
> >> - it comes
> >> out the other end and the tab is folded over.
> >>
> >> You actually cut through the cloth backing and
> >> the thin foam
> >> layer - the element slides in right behind the
> >> old element,
> >> which stays in place. Don't even think about
> >> removing it. A
> >> ruler is ideal for pushing the new element
> >> through. Cut the
> >> slits with the knife held over at 45 degrees -
> >> otherwise
> >> you'll get a small ridge in the seat when
> >> reassembled. Use a
> >> knife with disposable blades - it will be
>blunt
> >> before you're
> >> done.
> >>
> >>
> >>
> > === message truncated ===
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
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>
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> > _______________________________________________
> > quattro mailing list
> > quattro at audifans.com
> > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/quattro
> > ---
> > Watch this space for ads :)
> >
> >
> >
>
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>---
>Watch this space for ads :)
Bob
urS6 with RS2 and other mods for sale: http://chips-ur-s.com/S6.html
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