Front Seat Disassembly
Geraint Lloyd
geraintlloyd_qc at yahoo.ca
Wed Dec 20 11:00:26 EST 2006
I found this when I did mine:
http://members.aol.com/c1j1miller/body.html#Seat%20Heater%20element%20fix
as well as Richard's "hawg lunge" thing from the
archives and the bentley.
I replaced the use of hog ring pliers with 2 sets of
long nose pliers
and opened / reused the existing rings. It was doable,
but a PITA.
if you can find some hog rings and pliers then get
them......
Geraint
Shame about Phil's DR10
mike wrote:
> He got banned for drunk driving, I suspect the ban
is
> finished now but post ban insurance in the UK is
> scarily expensive and likely to preclude him driving
> anything with a turbo for the next 6 or 10 years.
>
> His website has changed focus and now concentrates
on
> the computer side but all the quattro stuff is still
> there.
>
> http://www.isham-research.co.uk/quattro/index.html
>
> maybe we'll see him again sometime, he's been a
great
> help to me in the past
>
>
> --- Richard J Lebens <rick-l at rocketmail.com> wrote:
>
>
>> Here is something I saved from Phil Payne. Anyone
>> know what happend to him and curbside motors?
>>
>> ----- Original Message ----
>> From:
>> "isham-research.freeserve.co.uk at pop.pol.net.uk"
>> <isham-research.freeserve.co.uk at pop.pol.net.uk>
>> To: pajono at ctconnect.com; quattro at audifans.com
>> Sent: Thursday, November 30, 2000 2:53:38 AM
>> Subject: Rebuilding seats
>>
>>
>>
>>> Anyone ever take apart an Audi front seat? I need
>>>
>> to replace the
>>
>>> bottom cushion in my drivers seat (90 90q), and
>>>
>> I'm wondering if this
>>
>>> is something I can tackle myself. It's a cloth
>>>
>> non power (but
>>
>>> heated) seat if that helps.
>>>
>> It's in the archives - search for 'hawg'. I dumped
>> out the archived
>> post and rewrote the whole thing for the
>> December/January club
>> newsletter:
>>
>> The Hawg Ring Lunge
>>
>> Many ur-quattros that we see have collapsed
>> side bolsters in
>> the driver's seat (look for foam crumbs
>> underneath) and/or
>> failed seat heaters. It seems appropriate to
>> discuss
>> repairing these at this time of year - it's a
>> job you can do
>> inside the house, a firm right bolster is
worth
>> 10 mph in a
>> left-hand bend, and a nice warm bum is lovely
>> on a cold
>> morning.
>>
>> The seats are very easy to remove - a 5mm
Allen
>> screw and a
>> 10mm nut secure the front of the slider and
two
>> screws secure
>> plastic bits at the rear of the runners. Line
>> the rear
>> footwell with newspaper so you don't get
grease
>> on the
>> carpet. Don't forget to unplug the heater
>> cable and, on a
>> WR, the driver's side seatbelt warning switch.
>> Finds under
>> the front carpet invariably include a boiled
>> sweet (factory
>> fitted?) and a couple of pounds in small
coins.
>> More unusual
>> finds have included an unopened pack of gum,
>> toilet
>> requisites and live ammunition.
>>
>> Once back in the warm and dry, check the
>> plastic side panels
>> in good light. Each side is secured by three
>> little dowels
>> pushed into expanding clips. When these
dowels
>> are removed,
>> the panels just pull off. Make a careful note
>> of the wire
>> locations in the heater plug, and undo it to
>> release the
>> wires. Remove the rake adjustment knob - it's
>> held on by
>> three tongues and you can reach inside the
back
>> of it with a
>> hook and pull them off one by one. Don't
worry
>> - a new knob
>> is only £3. Once it's off, remove the
>> adjustment mechanism.
>> The back is held to the base by two clevis pin
>> type fittings
>> with push-in clips - just pull them off and
>> stretch the arms
>> out over the pins. The seat should now be in
>> two pieces.
>>
>> To remove the lower cover, you will have to
>> remove the two
>> bushes onto which the catch engages when the
>> seat is locked
>> in its normal position. If these bushes (part
>> 171 881 299C)
>> are worn, replacing them can cure a lot of
seat
>> rattle for
>> very little money - about £1 a seat. Code 01Z
>> is dark brown,
>> code 01C is satin black. If the seat base is
>> loose in the
>> runners, new guide pieces are about the same
>> price.
>>
>> If the seatback squeaks loudly when wiggled
>> from side to
>> side, the usual cause is a fatigue crack in
one
>> or both top
>> corners of the seatback frame and this will
>> have to be
>> welded. Get the welder to insert a supporting
>> fillet -
>> Recaro's design is not the best. Didn't you
>> know the stock
>> seats are Recaro? Check out the stickers on
>> the seatback
>> frame. The rear seat cover comes off fairly
>> easily - the
>> headrest has to be removed to get its plastic
>> fixings out of
>> the seatback. While the seatback is
>> dismantled, check the
>> cable that operates the catch - it frays at
the
>> nylon runner
>> halfway down the back. If you need a new
>> cable, take care to
>> get the correct one - there are six different
>> part numbers
>> based on your VIN number, and even then
they're
>> not always
>> correct. It's a good idea to go to the dealer
>> armed with the
>> length of the old cable in millimetres - valid
>> numbers are
>> 342, 363, 370, 580, 689 and 765. Running
>> repairs can be made
>> with bicycle brake cable fixed with double
>> screw blocks cut
>> out of domestic 15 amp terminal blocks.
>>
>> If you're repairing the heater, check the
>> backrest and base
>> for continuity. The elements are wired in
>> series, and a
>> break in either will stop both from working.
>> Some people
>> have successfully repaired breaks by
soldering,
>> but it's
>> tricky as the elements are a silver alloy and
>> ordinary solder
>> doesn't work very well.
>>
>> Remove the seat cover you're interested in.
>> This will
>> usually be the base. You'll need good side
>> cutters to cut
>> the hog rings that secure the cover to the
>> steel wires passed
>> through the cushions. More of this later.
>> Count the rings
>> you cut and clear out all the fragments.
>>
>> The replacement element (443 963 555S, £98
>> VAT) goes inside
>> the seat cover. Don't be tempted just to lay
>> it on the seat
>> cushion underneath the cover - it will then be
>> underneath the
>> foam in the seat cover and will hardly warm
>> your bum at all.
>>
>> Lay the cover out, surface facing down and lay
>> the
>> replacement element on top to get the
>> orientation. Note that
>> the wires should come towards you - not
towards
>> the seat
>> cover surface. Otherwise you'll feel the lump
>> when sitting
>> on the seat. You can see that you'll have to
>> cut two slits
>> with a very sharp knife in the cloth backing
of
>> the seat
>> cover to thread each arm of the element
through
>> - it comes
>> out the other end and the tab is folded over.
>>
>> You actually cut through the cloth backing and
>> the thin foam
>> layer - the element slides in right behind the
>> old element,
>> which stays in place. Don't even think about
>> removing it. A
>> ruler is ideal for pushing the new element
>> through. Cut the
>> slits with the knife held over at 45 degrees -
>> otherwise
>> you'll get a small ridge in the seat when
>> reassembled. Use a
>> knife with disposable blades - it will be
blunt
>> before you're
>> done.
>>
>>
>>
> === message truncated ===
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
___________________________________________________________
> All new Yahoo! Mail "The new Interface is stunning
in its simplicity and ease of use." - PC Magazine
> http://uk.docs.yahoo.com/nowyoucan.html
> _______________________________________________
> quattro mailing list
> quattro at audifans.com
> http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/quattro
> ---
> Watch this space for ads :)
>
>
>
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com
More information about the quattro
mailing list