Rear brake advice after new pad install

[Mark R]

This would be a classic symptom of calipers and/or pads not being "knocked
back."  First, the caliper sliders on a floating caliper need proper
assembly lubrication.  Are the guide pins within specifications?  If not,
the calipers will "drag" on the pins not fully releasing the brakes.  ALWAYS
relubricate the guide pins if so equipped.  Simply clean them with a rag,
inspect for pitting, corrosion, or deformation, and repack with new grease.

Also, the pad to bracket or pad to caliper (floating or fixed caliper
design) interferance is fairly critical.  Too loose, and you'll get noise,
too tight and they can't move as designed.  Also, the pad contact surfaces
should also get a light coat of assembly lubrication (NOT on the friction
surface, or "pad face").  The pads need to slide.  If you need a hammer to
put them into place, either the mouting surface is corroded, or more likely,
the pad backing plate is slightly oversized and needs filing or belt
sanding.

I personally use Permatex high-temperature synthetic assembly lube.

As an aside, knock back is critical for braking performance and cooling,
especially with track useage.  .001-.003" total runout (hub/rotor runout
versus the caliper) is often all that's required, but a true .000" runout
won't knock back the pads away from the rotor face.

I hope this helps,
Mark Rosenkrantz (who does a lot of brake education with his Stoptech
customers)