Project 4ktq continues to fight me

[Ado Sigal]

Matthew Kramer wrote:

>Hi,
>   
>  Thanks for responding,
>   
>  I can definitely hear the pump while I am cranking,  Strange thing about this car and possibly the root of my problem is that it never had done the prime before start, at least not that I can hear.  But it always started right up without excessive cranking or anything.    All the CIS stuff was fine 3 wks ago when I took it out of the car.  The only difference now is that I turned it around UrQ style.  I am sure the fuel psi and return lines go to the right places and I talked to several people that said it did not matter where the individual injection lines went because it's just pressure and not in order like an ignition dist.  I also swapped out the plastic mounting box for an alu BMW one that lets me use a cone filter, but I have used that before with no problems.  I also moved the vacuum port for the fuel pressure regulator from below the throttle plate to above it but I can't see how that would make any difference, Vacuum is vacuum...  
>   
>  I have half a tank of gas in the car and I notice that it seems to run longer with the WOT switch taped in the closed position but only by a couple seconds.  It's like something is just stopping the fuel from going to the injectors...  Be it mechanical or electronic I don't know...    It fires, starts to sound like it is running on 3.5 cylinders and then revs down to 0 kind of a   BRAAAP....BUUUUH  BUUH Buh  buh buh
>  ...
>  I'll check out the flow plate and see what is going on there It seems really strange though because it was running and sounded good over the weekend and the only different now is that I added two gauges and removed the evaporator from the passsenger foot well.  I also removed the vacuum pump that sucks the AC flapper shut but that shouldn't affect the engine in any way.....
>
>  
>
Hi

Sorry for late jump in, but you should try this two simple procedures, 
to establish if you have fuel and spark.
For the spark: Take out FPR and plugs. Disconnect the coil HT lead from 
distr. side. Distance the end of the HT cable from the earth cca 10 - 15 
mil. Crank the engine and observe the spark. It should be noisy and 
blue/orange, and should fly that distance without problem. First you are 
going to have one spark per revolution; that means the hall and 
revolution sensors are working. After few revolution you should see 
regular 5 sparks appearing. It means that FW angle sensor is working. 
Since your car starts and runs for the duration of  the cold start 
injector, the FP should be OK, and spark test should prove OK to.
The initial fuel test should be run without turning the engine, and for 
additional safety, with grounded or disconnected coil. Than, take out 
FPR and substitute it with an ordinary light relay (4 plug - 25 A). With 
this relay, the FP should run with just ignition on. Disconnect the CS 
injector cable. Now take one, or all injectors out and lay them/it on 
the valve cover, covered with well absorbing cloth or tissue. Turn ign. 
on and observe if the fuel comes out from injectors, regardless of spray 
quality. If you have no fuel coming out, take the Co adjusting tool, 
slot it in and wedge the tool in by pushing it gently sideways, then try 
to lift the FD plate. If there is fuel pressure sufficient to fire the 
injectors, there should be fuel coming out, when the plate is raised. If 
so, the fuel pressure is OK. Then with FD plate rested, turn the 
adjusting tool CW direction, until there is continuos fuel coming out in 
any sot of spray. When so, return the injectors, and the car should 
start with a set of dry plugs. If there is a problem with FD, max one 
can do is to inspect the FPR seals, other than that, you need proper FP 
gauge. Well, try and let us know what you found.

HTH & good luck,

Ado