It did'nt crank/start :(

[Huw Powell]

I'm replying late and much of this has been addressed, but I'm gonna 
chime in anyway...

> Huw, you bring up some very interesting points
> regarding the grounds, which I can't help but to come
> up with more Qs.
> 
> For instance, you said:
> 
> "Does that "little ground strap" to the engine mount
> look heavy enough to be the return path for the
> starter current?"
> 
> Yes, it looks beefy enough, BUT does that ground run
> to the starter? It does not look like it does...at
> least from looking at the starter connections.

Yes, through the engine block.  The starter ground is where its case 
contacts the mounting ring on the block, aided by the mounting bolts.

> Doesn't the starter get grounded as it makes contact
> with the tranny housing? If so, I might have to strip
> paint off of that area

Yes, you will have to do that.  The starter does not actually touch the 
transmission, except via the bolts, by the way.

> "Is the engine mount well grounded to the block?"
> 
> That depends, I took such mount out and painted it, I
> also painted the whole engine block, including the
> area to which such mount attaches to the block.

Then it's not.

> But again, is paint an alienating agent in these
> instances, I can see being the fact, say on
> starter/alternator connections?

Paint is a pretty good insulator.  In some of these cases you might get 
lucky and mounting bolts will scrape off the paint under their head, and 
clean out the threads they are going into, making contact.  But you 
can't count on it.

To fix that mount to block contact you can remove the bolts one at a 
time and scrape the paint off where the bolt head rests, make sure the 
threaded holes are clean, and that ought to be enough.

You also mentioned adding a new dedicated block ground, and that is a 
good idea.  The best place to go to would be an engine/tranny bolt, find 
an easy one to get to, make sure there is no paint where contact is 
being made, and get a nice 2 GA, 2 foot or so ground wire at the store. 
  Run it to something solid and bulky attached to the cars frame. 
Figure it out and measure before buying, in case you need a longer one. 
  You could also use more than one if you can't find a frame stud that 
seems chunky enough for the starter current.

-- 
Huw Powell

http://www.humanspeakers.com/audi

http://www.humanthoughts.org/