A6 CV joint

[john at westcoastgarage.net]

Roy Wendell wrote:

> The key is which bolt you use. The original bolt is only threaded on 
> about the last inch with the balance being a necked down smooth 
> portion. The replacements, both male hex and allen head, are all 
> thread. I almost destroyed a joint trying to pop out the shaft with 
> the original bolt because I ran out of thread before the axle popped 
> and the last couple of threads near the necked portion got bunged up. 
> I couldn't turn the bolt in any further because the washer was tight 
> up again the splined stub shaft. I couldn't get the bolt back out 
> because the threads were messed up. I ended up cutting the head off 
> the bolt and driving out the whole lot with a drift. I've since done 
> two joints using the newer all thread replacement bolts with no 
> problem. The actual audi tool is just a threaded rod with a pointed 
> tip to fit the dimple in the end of the shaft. Functionally it's no 
> different from using the bolt except for the smaller bearing surface 
> area and corresponding lower turning force.
>
> Roy
> On Apr 12, 2007, at 2:51 PM, John Larson wrote:
>
>> You said ...... "Using the bolt to pull the joint apart doesn't 
>> always work FYI. I've
>> personally destroyed a bolt and outer CV of a customers car, so I'm
>> speaking from experience here." .............snip ................
>>
>> In the 50 or so of these I've done, I have yet to have this problem.  
>> Maybe I've been lucky?  I DO think the bolt is a bit short, and I 
>> keep thinking I dhould make a tool.  I think a .5" nub at the tip 
>> would do it.  Like I have the time to make one!
>>
>> John
>>
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>
>
Actually, the bolts that come in the kits are still a bit short.  Maybe 
I'll center drill a few and insert a tip.  Make the big bux on the 
internet!  Seriously, perhaps I could make a few for listers at a 
reasonable price.  Shoulda saved all those bolts!  The pulley extractor 
for the Porsche 964 engines is the same bolt with 30mm of the threads 
turned off.  John