Alternator Question

Steve Sears steve.sears at soil-mat.on.ca
Mon Sep 24 06:48:09 PDT 2007


Vittorio,
If the alternator is one of those 110 amp units, then the two bolt pivot is 
correct.  If it is the 90 amp unit, then it should have a long bolt and nut 
at the pivot.  If you were to hook a long jumper cable directly between the 
snubber mount to the battery ground, would you get a different reading? 
(The engine ground to chassis across one of the engine mounts may be bad). 
You might also check the condition of the battery cable splice.
Cheers!
Steve Sears
1962 and '64 Auto Union DKW Junior deLuxes
1980 Audi 5000
1987 Audi 5000 Turbo Quattro
----- Original Message ----- 
> Date: Sun, 23 Sep 2007 18:23:42 -0400
> From: "Vittorio Bares" <Vittorio.Bares at nuance.com>
> Subject: RE: Alternator Question
> To: <quattro at audifans.com>
> Message-ID:
> <2AB5541EB33172459EE430FFB66B1EE909E311B7 at BN-EXCH01.nuance.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>
> Ok - thanks again for the indications.
>
> Did everything suggested!
>
> And as a last resort (doh!) - took down the alternator and cleaned &
> applied dielectric to all the contact points. (thanks P Cole).
>
> Started her up and voila - 13.8v - 13.9v, took it for a ride and it went
> back to where it was previously :(.
>
> My suspicion now is the mounting hardware used at the pivot point (on
> the snub nose bracket). It appears the last folks that had their hands
> in there put 2 threaded bolts, one on the front and one on the back. The
> one closest to the firewall does not tighten all the way. Perhaps its
> stripped (it came off very easily as well).
>
> My question to the list is:
>
> "Should there be a through bolt that pinches the alternator to the snub
> nose bracket, rather than the 2 bolt setup that's in there now?"
>
> TIA - getting closer...
>
>
> Vittorio 




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