Alternator Question

[Mark R]

Steve's got it right... often overlooked is the primary wiring.  Audi didn't
use the greatest wiring when new, and now you'll often find corrosion under
the sheath due to moisture wicking.  Remember, the alternator has to have
the ability to get the current (amperage) out as well.

Another quick and dirty test is to check voltage at the battery versus the
alternator post (if available when engine is running).  Set up the wiring
before starting the engine.  If you see a voltage change (drop along the
wiring), you'll need some attention there.

Cheers!
Mark Rosenkrantz


On 9/24/07, Steve Sears <steve.sears at soil-mat.on.ca> wrote:
>
> Vittorio,
> If the alternator is one of those 110 amp units, then the two bolt pivot
> is
> correct.  If it is the 90 amp unit, then it should have a long bolt and
> nut
> at the pivot.  If you were to hook a long jumper cable directly between
> the
> snubber mount to the battery ground, would you get a different reading?
> (The engine ground to chassis across one of the engine mounts may be bad).
> You might also check the condition of the battery cable splice.
> Cheers!
> Steve Sears
> 1962 and '64 Auto Union DKW Junior deLuxes
> 1980 Audi 5000
> 1987 Audi 5000 Turbo Quattro
>