Bad Oil Leak 4000cs

[Huw Powell]

This may not help much right now, but some of those bolts go into oilways.

To replace the oil pump gasket you do need to drop the oil pan, really. 
  So hope you don't have to.  It doesn't sound like you messed those 
gaskets up, though.

When replacing the crank seal, we try to put it wher the old one is - a 
bit tricky, banging it in while watching the shiny marks where it was...

DK wrote:
> Hi all, back again!
> 
> Couple weeks ago when I did the timing belt on my 87 4000 (stock JT) I
> replaced the cam and the crank seal while I was in there. Cam seal was
> no problem, no leakage afterwards. With the crank seal I managed to
> damage it while installing it (along with some oil for lube). Week
> later when I got replacements, the seal went in all right, but maybe
> it didn't go in all the way. At the third try, I bottomed it out with
> the help of a PVC adapter - but nevertheless it still leaks pretty
> badly (quart per 100miles)...
> Before the TB job there was a slight leak coming from around the seal,
> everything else around the pan was dry. I removed the seal by
> inserting two screws  and pulling/rotating it out. There is no visible
> damage on the crank or oil pump housing. The other thing what I may
> think could cause the problem is the gasket between the block and oil
> pump. When I removed the lower TB cover, I didn't put it back on, but
> even with it now it still leaks around the seal and the gasket area.
> Do I have to pull the oil pan in order to replace that gasket? And if
> so, do I have to mess/lower the sub frame in order to access it?
> 
> TIA,
> 
> 
> Dave
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-- 
Huw Powell

http://www.humanspeakers.com/audi

http://www.humanthoughts.org/