camshaft oil seal plus belt tracking

[john at westcoastgarage.net]

> Thanks, Tony.  Got it in with that tool and a longer bolt.  Not good at
> hammering straight, so using the bolt to pull it in works more
> comfortably for me.
>
> Now I have a tracking problem with the belt:  It wants to run to the
> outside of the camshaft and water pump pulleys so it sticks out maybe
> 3-3.5mm as measured from the camshaft pulley outside surface.  I can
> line it up and wind the engine over a half dozen times with a wrench and
> it works its way out about that far.  I tried putting on the plastic
> upper cover, to see if it would rub that way, and it DOES rub, but the
> cover pushes it back into alignment on the  camshaft pulley.
>
> It's a Conti belt.   Is this just wear-in stuff?  Will it stretch and
> straighten out eventually?  Belt has been wound up in its original box
> for a couple years.
>
>
>
> Tony Hoffman wrote:
>> I always use a socket that lines up with the outside diameter of the
>> seal. Done hunderds (if not thousands) this way, always with great
>> results. Just carefully hold the seal and socket square with the
>> surface when first hammering it in. You can also use grease on the
>> outside, to aid it sliding in.
>>
>> However, if you want to use the tool, a longer bolt will work for it.
>> I know the tool you are talking about, I have one specific for doing
>> the rear crank seal on an air cooled VW engine. Works pretty well, but
>> for the smaller seals I like the socket way much better.
>>
>> Tony
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Something's out of whack.  It is NOT "wear in stuff".  First thing I'd
look at is the installation of the idler roller.  The crank gear is behind
the pulley, and is fully supported by the crankshaft,  The pulley provides
insurance the belt won't walk off the drive gear, but it really doesn't
"keep" it going straight.  The Camshaft gear also sits on the shaft and is
secured flat by the bolt.  The only possible way I can see it causing a
"walk" is if the gear were installed backwards, and I don't think it would
have that result.  IMO, it comes down to the idler roller not being fully
seated in the recess in the pump cover.  I'd pull it back off and be sure
pressing it in didn't shave some of the bore and deposit metal at the
bottom of the bore.  Freezing the roller seems to work well ........  BTW,
I'm doing one of those on my former 90 20v right now.  Over 300 K and not
a mark on the water pump surface.  I attribute that to the correct
phosphate free coolant, despite the 9 year interval since the last
belt/pump change.

Good luck, and keep us posted as to your findings.  John