water pump mounting plate pitted

john at westcoastgarage.net john at westcoastgarage.net
Wed Sep 30 10:05:21 PDT 2009


Joshua Van Tol wrote:
> Ed,
>
> You've got two options:
>
> 1.) assemble with silicone sealant and work fast. Once the belt is
> tensioned, you shouldn't need to adjust it until the next replacement.
> 2.) As you suggested, use JB weld. It works really well in this type of
> application. The VW Vanagon nut cases were using it to fix pits in cylinder
> head surfaces with good success, so it should be just fine for a water pump
> surface. I'd say fill the pits slightly past full, let it set, and then
> block sand it smooth and level.
>
> Actually there's a third option, involving brazing or welding, but I think
> that's too much work...
>
>
> On Tue, Sep 29, 2009 at 9:53 PM, Ed Kellock <ed.kellock at msn.com> wrote:
>
>   
>> I'm doing the timing belt, etc. on the Coupe GT.  The area where the water
>> pump o-ring seals is slightly pitted.  I smoothed it down and cleaned it up
>> with a sanding block and I still have a couple of spots where there is some
>> light pitting.  I was thinking about using some high-temp JB Weld to smooth
>> it out.  Is there something else that would be better?  Is there some water
>> pump oriented stuff that would be more appropriate?  I didn't think I
>> should
>> use any sort of gasket sealer because the water pump has to move to tension
>> the belt.  I didn't think I could rely on the o-ring to seal reliably over
>> time even though the pitting is really very minor.
>>
>> Thanks in advance for input and/or suggestions.
>>
>> Ed
>> _______________________________________________
>> Hey!  I'm one of those "VW Vanagon nutcases".  I've used JB Weld to fill those pits for years.  I learned it from a BMW TSB.  I've used the technique on a 5K with good results.  You MUST use the regular slow drying type, and the surface MUST be as clean as you can get it.  I use a wire brush, carb cleaner, a razorblace, and compressed air.  Apply the JB Weld sparingly with a putty knife, let it dry for 24 hours, file or sand it flat with a wide tool so you don't induce any irregularities, and reapply more epoxy as necessary, allowing it to dry the full cure time and again sanding it flat.  Patience, in this case, is not only a virtue, it's the only thing that will make the job work. 

>> As for silicone sealant, this isn't a job it was made for, and an Audi engine isn't the engine it was made for, either. John
>>     



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