CS5000 turbo quattro blower motor

[Doyt W. Echelberger]

 From my archive....this is what Steve Buchholtz wrote on Wednesday, July 
1. 1999:
*********
I just did the same this past weekend on my BiL's car ...

My preferred approach is to loosen the airbox after removing the wiper
mechanism, remove the lower covers on the driver's and passenger's side, and
slide the duct from the A/C evaporator back into the airbox.  Detach the
hard plastic ducts that go to the driver's and passenger's footwell and the
soft ducts for the dash vents.  Now you should be able to lift up the airbox
(with the requisite grunts and snarls) just enough to be able to extract
that duct that goes to the A/C evaporator (I had to wedge the top part out
by hand far enough to get the duct to slip out the top).  I was then able to
get a small #1 Phillips driver to access the lower screw on the blower motor
access cover by sliding the handle into the evaporator box outlet.  Things
are pretty easy from here out ... remove the access cover, pull the snap
ring that holds the motor in place, slide out the old blower.  The black
cover housing from the old motor will probably remain in the blower box ...
it is pretty easy to reach in and take it out.  When installing the new
blower I use some silicone lubricant (or equiv) on the rubber slides inside
the airbox that serve as a vibration isolator as well as the 3 black
extensions on the black cover housing.  There is a indexing key on the end
of the motor near the electrical connector which is oriented up.  Slide the
blower in place and replace the snap ring.  Reinstall the blower access
cover and the evaporator duct.  Push the airbox back into place and secure
with the strap.  Reinstall the wiper mechanism and reattach the parts taken
off inside the car.

You may want to check the recirculate flap mechanism as well ... if the car
is of the '86-88 vintage and hasn't had the fix applied before the door is
probably swinging free.  A few days ago I posted a slight correction to the
parts list Wallace supplied.  On my BiL's car, before I had a chance to fix
it I took a chunk of foam rubber and used it to hold the door in fresh air
mode ...

HTH!
Steve Buchholz
San Jose, CA (USA)
 >>>>>>>>>>
And here is the original, sent to me by Dr. Powell:

For the record, here's the fan/blower replacement procedure.
Original from Eric Fletcher, modifications by Frank Bauer (fjb).  I
have eliminated the references to Eric's famous steak knife, as it's
not really required.

Notes I would add:

1)  Remove all cable ties which appear to be in your way.  The
clipped ends on some of them really cut up my hands!!

2)  You WILL need split ring pliers to get the split ring/circlip off
the end of the fan motor.  This ring retains the motor in the blower
housing. This is obvious when you see it; it's on the driver's side
of the housing.  HINT: wait to remove it until you have the heat
housing pried upwards.  It's MUCH easier to reach then...but DON'T
let the split ring fly off to god-knows-where when it comes loose!

3)  Protect the fenders while doing this.  You will be leaning over
them a lot and jean rivets, etc can scratch them easily.

4)  The old blower has a plastic cover on the back end.  After
removing the blower, if there is no plastic cover on the rearmost
half of the motor,  look inside the blower and make sure the housing
has come out - it often sticks inside.  If it's there, it will look
like three wide fingers pointing toward the open side of the blower
housing.  Just reach in and pull it out - you can't put the new
blower in place till this is removed.

I have also added a few notes to Eric and Frank's comments.

Original from: fjbauer at dsavm.e-mail.com
Date: Thu, 18 Jul 1996 20:20:26 EDT
Subject: 5000 blower and steak knives

Subject: 5000 blower and steak knives

Here is the post from Eric.  I have made a few edits/additions - I
just performed this procedure.  (My changes marked with "fjb>")
Frank


Eric's post begins...

Well I finally got around to doing the heater blower in my beast.
  With this method you only have to raise the blower box up about 3
inches, and it can be done in about half an hour.

Al:  If you don't have Eric's magic fingers, est= 2.5 hours.

Tools required:
2 Flat bladed screwdrivers one short and one of the MONDO variety.
1 Short Phillips head screwdriver
10mm socket
13mm socket
3" and 9" extender bar and Ratchet
Outside Snap ring pliers


Remove wiper blades with the 10mm socket.

fjb>It's a 13mm
fjb>  watch for the spring washer under the nut when you pop
the blades loose.

Remove the black plastic shield with the Audi Logo on it.
fjb> careful popping the clips or you'll crack the shield.

Remove the wiper assembly (one bolt per wiper, one on the motor, one
electrical connection) 10mm Socket here, You might want to lube the
linkage while it's out....
fjb> You might want to vacuum all the crap out of the area at this
point
Al:  DO IT!!!  There is more crap in there than you'd believe!!

Remove the Heater box Retaining strap with the phillips
driver.

Remove the Upper Radiator hose to dump about 1 quart of coolant and
reinstall; this will prevent a mess in the next step.

Remove the Heater core supply and return lines.

Remove the Electric plug and Outside Snap ring from the back of the
blower motor.
Al: There is also a large washer - don't forget it when putting it
back together!

Shove the round Black Blower duct (passenger side) into the heater
box.
fjb> ...up to the bellows

Take the small flat bladed screwdriver and run it around the seal on
the the firewall to loosen it.
fjb> just need to pry it loose here and there - enough so it will
move some.
Al: Agreed.  It will come loose with a firm, persistent pull....

fjb> now go into the passenger compartment and remove the lower
panels, console panels and footwell ducts from both sides. Also
remove  corrugated ducts for upper vents from both sides.  Now
everything will move freely enough for the next step.

Take the MONDO Driver and pry between the engine bay firewall and
the blower housing to raise the housing 3".

fjb> raise the housing enough so that the Black Blower duct will
clear the black A/C heat exchanger box.  It may help to do
some of this from inside the passenger compartment since
there is much left/right clearance here.  the blower housing
can be tilted up slightly on the passenger side to achieve the
necessary clearance.

Al: I did all my prying on the engine side.  Careful not to bend the
firewall forward of the heater housing, and DON'T pry where the
AC tubing is under your prybar!!

With the housing raised take the steak knife and cut the black blower
duct so that it can be compressed on itself and slid further
into the blower box duct.
fjb> ***skip the last step***
Al:  Agreed.  It can be shoved back far enough that this is
unnecessary - You only have to get it clear of the AC box.

Remove the 2 visible phillips head screws holding the blower duct
adapter onto the blower housing.

fjb> Rremove all three screws - you may need a long phillips for the
lower one.
Al:  I don't see how Frank reached this with a long screwdriver.  I
managed it using a stubby Phillips and prying the heater housing WAY
up.  If I had needed to, I would have broken the screw free, but it
was not necessary.  However, I could NOT get the third screw back in
when re-installing this part...so I just left it out.

Eric: Take the MONDO screwdriver and break the lower screw out
of the blower housing.
fjb>[and Al] ***skip the last step*** Remove the duct adapter.

Remove the blower motor cooling hose.

Push the blower out of the housing through the duct hole.

Install as they say is the reverse of the removal.  Use the RTV or
Silicone to seal the blower housing back  to the firewall.  That's
it.  I did this in Half an Hour by myself in 30F weather.

fjb> skip the RTV part - add 1 hour to your time estimate.

Al: Don't believe them.  Allow 2-3 hours.  It took me 2.5.  And the
sealant on the box was sticky enough that I didn't use any RTV - it
appeared to me that the seal was still good.

fjb> Wwhen lowering and repositioning the blower housing,
make sure the oval rubber grommet/hose thingy on the
bottom lines up with the opening atop the transmission
tunnel.
fjb> muchas garcias to stediric!

Al: Lotsa Dankes to both gents!


*******************************************************
Al Powell, Ph.D.                 Voice:  409/845-2807
107 Reed McDonald Bldg.          Fax:    409/862-1202
College Station, TX 77843
Http://agcomwww.tamu.edu/agcom/satellit/alpage.htm