brake bleeding ... 87 5KTQ

[Dave C]

Huw,

The 4kQ is different .... it's prop valve comes with a bleeder nipple and
it's located under the hood.  The Type 44 has the prop valve near the left
rear wheel, and has no bleeder nipple.

Where does one obtain a new billet cap?

Thanks!



On Sun, Nov 21, 2010 at 7:08 PM, Huw Powell <audi at humanspeakers.com> wrote:

> 1. Are you bleeding the prop valve as well?  If it's anything like the 4kq,
> the order is PV - RR - LR - RF - LF - PV.  One at a time, obviously, I hope.
>
> 2. You never know, your master cylinder might have gone bad.
>
> 3. With the garden sprayer you shouldn't need compressed air, just pump it
> up manually.  Make sure there is enough clean brake fluid in it so all that
> gets sent to the reservoir is brake fluid under a few PSI. Better than a
> used reservoir cap is a new billet cap.
>
> One of the techs next door has such a setup and I have used it, it works
> well.
>
>
> On 11/21/2010 6:49 PM, Dave C wrote:
>
>> Howdy Q-heads,
>>
>> The car is a 1987 5ktq.  I overhauled the brakes, replaced or rebuilt all
>> four calipers, replaced the proportioning valve and all the hard lines
>> rearward of the engine compartment.  The proportioning valve lever was
>> seized due to heavy rust.
>>
>> Now the brake pedal is>very<  soft and goes to the floor, which I assume
>> means there is still air in the system.  I've already pumped about 2
>> liters
>> of fluid through the system, but obviously didn't do a proper job of it.
>> I'm not getting any bubbles at the calipers, just fluid.
>>
>> I'm>trying<  to pressure bleed, but my home made setup doesn't work very
>> well.  It's a garden sprayer tank with a schraeder valve and a hose
>> connected to a brake fluid reservoir cap.  The cap seal doesn't hold much
>> pressure and fluid tends to leak out around the cap and dribble all over
>> the
>> place at anything over about 5 PSI.  But this setup has worked in the past
>> for ordinary fluid flushing.
>>
>> I'm wondering if there is something special I need to do related to the
>> fact
>> that I replaced the hard lines.  Should the usual method work in this
>> situation?  Maybe I need to crack the lines open at some mid point to let
>> the air out?
>>
>> BTW ... the reason I replaced the hard lines is that they looked corroded
>> with rusty fuzz on the surface.  After removing the old lines I found they
>> seemed to be fairly solid, and maybe didn't need replacement.  On the
>> surface they looked like the fuel lines I recently replaced.  The fuel
>> lines
>> actually were leaking under the rubber grommets.  When I removed the old
>> fuel lines they fell apart, which led me to suspect the brake lines might
>> be
>> next.
>>
>> Anyway ... All I can think to do is try flushing more fluid through the
>> system in hopes of getting a solid pedal.  But it seems like I'm doing
>> something wrong.  Do I need a better pressure bleeder?  Should I abandon
>> the
>> pressure bleeder and try one of those $5 one-man bleeder hoses?  Any other
>> ideas?
>>
>> Dave C
>> Columbus, OH
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>  ... bad on the outsided
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>>
> --
> Huw Powell
>
> http://www.humanspeakers.com/audi
>
> http://www.humanthoughts.org/
>