brake bleeding ... 87 5KTQ

[Huw Powell]

1. Are you bleeding the prop valve as well?  If it's anything like the 
4kq, the order is PV - RR - LR - RF - LF - PV.  One at a time, 
obviously, I hope.

2. You never know, your master cylinder might have gone bad.

3. With the garden sprayer you shouldn't need compressed air, just pump 
it up manually.  Make sure there is enough clean brake fluid in it so 
all that gets sent to the reservoir is brake fluid under a few PSI. 
Better than a used reservoir cap is a new billet cap.

One of the techs next door has such a setup and I have used it, it works 
well.

On 11/21/2010 6:49 PM, Dave C wrote:
> Howdy Q-heads,
>
> The car is a 1987 5ktq.  I overhauled the brakes, replaced or rebuilt all
> four calipers, replaced the proportioning valve and all the hard lines
> rearward of the engine compartment.  The proportioning valve lever was
> seized due to heavy rust.
>
> Now the brake pedal is>very<  soft and goes to the floor, which I assume
> means there is still air in the system.  I've already pumped about 2 liters
> of fluid through the system, but obviously didn't do a proper job of it.
> I'm not getting any bubbles at the calipers, just fluid.
>
> I'm>trying<  to pressure bleed, but my home made setup doesn't work very
> well.  It's a garden sprayer tank with a schraeder valve and a hose
> connected to a brake fluid reservoir cap.  The cap seal doesn't hold much
> pressure and fluid tends to leak out around the cap and dribble all over the
> place at anything over about 5 PSI.  But this setup has worked in the past
> for ordinary fluid flushing.
>
> I'm wondering if there is something special I need to do related to the fact
> that I replaced the hard lines.  Should the usual method work in this
> situation?  Maybe I need to crack the lines open at some mid point to let
> the air out?
>
> BTW ... the reason I replaced the hard lines is that they looked corroded
> with rusty fuzz on the surface.  After removing the old lines I found they
> seemed to be fairly solid, and maybe didn't need replacement.  On the
> surface they looked like the fuel lines I recently replaced.  The fuel lines
> actually were leaking under the rubber grommets.  When I removed the old
> fuel lines they fell apart, which led me to suspect the brake lines might be
> next.
>
> Anyway ... All I can think to do is try flushing more fluid through the
> system in hopes of getting a solid pedal.  But it seems like I'm doing
> something wrong.  Do I need a better pressure bleeder?  Should I abandon the
> pressure bleeder and try one of those $5 one-man bleeder hoses?  Any other
> ideas?
>
> Dave C
> Columbus, OH
>
>
>
>
>   ... bad on the outsided
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-- 
Huw Powell

http://www.humanspeakers.com/audi

http://www.humanthoughts.org/