brake bleeding ... 87 5KTQ
Dave C
dconner at gmail.com
Sun Nov 21 15:49:37 PST 2010
Howdy Q-heads,
The car is a 1987 5ktq. I overhauled the brakes, replaced or rebuilt all
four calipers, replaced the proportioning valve and all the hard lines
rearward of the engine compartment. The proportioning valve lever was
seized due to heavy rust.
Now the brake pedal is >very< soft and goes to the floor, which I assume
means there is still air in the system. I've already pumped about 2 liters
of fluid through the system, but obviously didn't do a proper job of it.
I'm not getting any bubbles at the calipers, just fluid.
I'm >trying< to pressure bleed, but my home made setup doesn't work very
well. It's a garden sprayer tank with a schraeder valve and a hose
connected to a brake fluid reservoir cap. The cap seal doesn't hold much
pressure and fluid tends to leak out around the cap and dribble all over the
place at anything over about 5 PSI. But this setup has worked in the past
for ordinary fluid flushing.
I'm wondering if there is something special I need to do related to the fact
that I replaced the hard lines. Should the usual method work in this
situation? Maybe I need to crack the lines open at some mid point to let
the air out?
BTW ... the reason I replaced the hard lines is that they looked corroded
with rusty fuzz on the surface. After removing the old lines I found they
seemed to be fairly solid, and maybe didn't need replacement. On the
surface they looked like the fuel lines I recently replaced. The fuel lines
actually were leaking under the rubber grommets. When I removed the old
fuel lines they fell apart, which led me to suspect the brake lines might be
next.
Anyway ... All I can think to do is try flushing more fluid through the
system in hopes of getting a solid pedal. But it seems like I'm doing
something wrong. Do I need a better pressure bleeder? Should I abandon the
pressure bleeder and try one of those $5 one-man bleeder hoses? Any other
ideas?
Dave C
Columbus, OH
... bad on the outsided
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