brake bleeding ... 87 5KTQ

[L DC]

Peter,

"I recall that you have to "block" the prop valve open to get a proper bleed."

But wouldn't that cause it to bleed (when brake pedal is pushed down) followed by sucking air (when pedal returns?

-Regards,

-Louis
  

--- On Sun, 11/21/10, Peter Golledge <petergolledge at gmail.com> wrote:

> From: Peter Golledge <petergolledge at gmail.com>
> Subject: Re: brake bleeding ... 87 5KTQ
> To: "Dave C" <dconner at gmail.com>
> Cc: quattro at audifans.com
> Date: Sunday, November 21, 2010, 8:44 PM
> I recall that you have to "block" the
> prop valve open to get a proper bleed.
> 
> With the car up on jackstands the prop valve limits flow to
> the rear and interferes with bleeding.
> 
> 
> On 11/21/2010 4:49 PM, Dave C wrote:
> > Howdy Q-heads,
> >
> > The car is a 1987 5ktq.  I overhauled the brakes,
> replaced or rebuilt all
> > four calipers, replaced the proportioning valve and
> all the hard lines
> > rearward of the engine compartment.  The
> proportioning valve lever was
> > seized due to heavy rust.
> >
> > Now the brake pedal is>very<  soft and goes
> to the floor, which I assume
> > means there is still air in the system.  I've
> already pumped about 2 liters
> > of fluid through the system, but obviously didn't do a
> proper job of it.
> > I'm not getting any bubbles at the calipers, just
> fluid.
> >
> > I'm>trying<  to pressure bleed, but my home
> made setup doesn't work very
> > well.  It's a garden sprayer tank with a
> schraeder valve and a hose
> > connected to a brake fluid reservoir cap.  The
> cap seal doesn't hold much
> > pressure and fluid tends to leak out around the cap
> and dribble all over the
> > place at anything over about 5 PSI.  But this
> setup has worked in the past
> > for ordinary fluid flushing.
> >
> > I'm wondering if there is something special I need to
> do related to the fact
> > that I replaced the hard lines.  Should the usual
> method work in this
> > situation?  Maybe I need to crack the lines open
> at some mid point to let
> > the air out?
> >
> > BTW ... the reason I replaced the hard lines is that
> they looked corroded
> > with rusty fuzz on the surface.  After removing
> the old lines I found they
> > seemed to be fairly solid, and maybe didn't need
> replacement.  On the
> > surface they looked like the fuel lines I recently
> replaced.  The fuel lines
> > actually were leaking under the rubber grommets. 
> When I removed the old
> > fuel lines they fell apart, which led me to suspect
> the brake lines might be
> > next.
> >
> > Anyway ... All I can think to do is try flushing more
> fluid through the
> > system in hopes of getting a solid pedal.  But it
> seems like I'm doing
> > something wrong.  Do I need a better pressure
> bleeder?  Should I abandon the
> > pressure bleeder and try one of those $5 one-man
> bleeder hoses?  Any other
> > ideas?
> >
> > Dave C
> > Columbus, OH
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >   ... bad on the outsided
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> >
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