Anyone parting a C4 or B5 A4/S4 w/Bose?

Sun Jan 16 12:12:48 PST 2011

Need front door speakers... 4" w/ 3 mounting holes.  Used in B5 A4/S4... Maybe others?

Wylie Bean
TheRingmeister at triad.rr.com
90 cq
91 90q20v
92 UrS4
08 Q7 3.6
via BlackBerry®

-----Original Message-----
From: quattro-request at audifans.com
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Date: Sun, 16 Jan 2011 12:00:02 
To: <quattro at audifans.com>
Reply-To: quattro at audifans.com
Subject: quattro Digest, Vol 87, Issue 33

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Today's Topics:

   1. Re: 98 A4 starting issues and codes (Mark Rosenkrantz)
   2. Re: walk away (Tony Hoffman)

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Message: 1
Date: Sat, 15 Jan 2011 21:04:20 -0500
From: Mark Rosenkrantz <speedracer.mark at gmail.com>
Subject: Re: 98 A4 starting issues and codes
To: dgraber460 at aol.com
Cc: quattro at audifans.com
Message-ID:
	<AANLkTi=Upo55YDAMNDvK5TSDUJ7V7wf7n7V7ZWqoE1Vy at mail.gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1

The 18010 is anytime the ECU looses power (battery terminal pull, dead
battery, etc.) and is likely nothing.

I'd start with resetting the throttle body alignment and then doing some
logging of the fuel trim and timing while driving.  Also, take a look at the
g/s of airflow from the Mass Airflow Sensor.

The EVAP system has a full test using VAG-COM.  Well, for the full test, you
need a smoke machine.  If the leak is truly large, that could be the
problem.  Or it could be a loose cap.

The system too lean is likely the issue... but why is fuel being cut on both
banks?  Massive air leak of un-metered air (most likely), bad fuel caused
clogged injectors, clogged fuel filter, bad pump or check valve, etc.  I'd
do the key on and residual fuel pressure tests to check that end.  Generally
a fuel filter issues are manifested by steady state turns at moderate
speeds... not at idle/start.  After you verify the pressure, you might want
to do a volume/spray pattern test.
Also, I read that link... the N80 valve make some sense as well.

Hope this helps,
Mark Rosenkrantz
On Sat, Jan 15, 2011 at 5:24 PM, <dgraber460 at aol.com> wrote:

> 5 Faults Found:
>
> 18010 - Power Supply Terminal 30: Voltage too Low
>        P1602 - 35-10 -  -  - Intermittent
> 17546 - Fuel Trim: Bank 2 (Add): System too Lean
>        P1138 - 35-00 -  -
> 17544 - Fuel Trim: Bank 1 (Add): System too Lean
>        P1136 - 35-00 -  -
> 16839 - EVAP System: Large Leak Detected
>        P0455 - 35-00 -  -
> 16825 - EVAP Emission Control Sys: Incorrect Flow
>        P0441 - 35-00 -  -
>
>

------------------------------

Message: 2
Date: Sun, 16 Jan 2011 08:52:42 -0600
From: Tony Hoffman <auditony at gmail.com>
Subject: Re: walk away
To: L DC <ldc007usa at yahoo.com>
Cc: "TWFAUST at aol.com" <TWFAUST at aol.com>,	"quattro at audifans.com"
	<quattro at audifans.com>,	thejimrose <thejimrose at gmail.com>
Message-ID:
	<AANLkTim9P-aKbP2yGpx-YUduh=GoYDiwL+qF_JjG4M0V at mail.gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1

Sure will.

First, before doing a cam swap, do a good free flowing exhaust. If not,
period tests (VW & Porsche) show a slight loss of torque with no gain in HP.
Those were with the 272 cam, though.

I have a 2.25" exhaust in mine. The cam swap doesn't seem to have negatively
affected milage. In fact, I have seen a slight increase, probably 1mpg
across the board. This is my DD, and I just put over 2500 road trip miles in
it, so I check milage often. I don't know that there is a rev point that the
difference is noticed, rather it's just more powerful ar higher RPM's. I am
also working on a stock 84, and comparing the two, mine is slightly stronger
from 3000 up. However, the 84 has better base settings, so the off idle is
better. Mine is identical to when the stock cam was in it.

The swap is straight forward. I just took the old one out, put the new one
it. I needed to remove the old one anyhow to clean the lifters. And, I had
the MC1 cam laying around. I would suggest replacing the WP/TB/idler/cam and
crank seals when you do this as well. And, replace your VC gasket with the
rubber one.

I don't have specs for any of the cams, however. But, I've been told that
the MC1 is slightly more aggressive, then the MC2 and NG/NF cams (which are
the same) are even more aggressive. then, the 272 cams.

HTH,
Tony

On Thu, Jan 13, 2011 at 10:29 AM, L DC <ldc007usa at yahoo.com> wrote:

>   Tony,
>
> Could you please elaborate on the "more lift" due to that MC1 cam swap you
> did on the JT-Engine?
>
> At what REV do you start to see the difference?
> How's your gas mileage after the swap?
> Was the swap straight forward?
> Any other parts needed swap...e.i. Bolts, Nuts, Bearings?
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> -Louis
>
>
>

------------------------------

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