timing belt age as a sole replacement indicator
Paul Caouette
paxnobis at gmail.com
Wed Apr 23 19:01:50 PDT 2014
My personal experience with timing belt.........a beautiful 1992 V8
pearlescent I purchased from a workmate. She had decided it was too
expensive to maintain.
The person told me her mechanic told her the belt needed replacing. I
ignored that data point and after two months it suddenly lost power. I
thought it was fule injector problem, At the next fill-up I added some
"magic" inje tor cleaner and took it down the street running up the RPMs to
about 5000................clank! Engine came quickly to a dead
stop.............broken belt. So much for ignore---ance....!!
By bye to such a beautiful car. I think I got $800 from a recycler.
On Wed, Apr 23, 2014 at 6:48 PM, Walter Moore <moorewr at gmail.com> wrote:
> August..Florida.. as a native-Floridian I know how awful garage work in
> August can be. If I'm feeling brave I may do this myself.. $200 or so for
> the parts and the tool kit rental, plus $??? for my learning curve. :-)
>
> (PS: I live in Clearwater, grew up in Coral Gables and went to UF)
>
>
> On Wed, Apr 23, 2014 at 3:21 PM, Mike Arman <Armanmik at earthlink.net>
> wrote:
>
> >
> >
> > Timing belt on an I-5 is a pretty easy and fast job. The quote of $950
> > evidently is because the mechanic's yacht payment is due.
> >
> > I used to do them in about 2.5 hours from open hood to wash hands. I'd
> > cheerfully do three a day at $950 each, where do I sign on? (Lets see,
> $950
> > times 3 times 5 days times 50 weeks is $712,500 a year . . . so I'll hire
> > someone to do it, pay them $20 an hour and keep the difference!)
> >
> > Old timing belts make me nervous, and old timing belts that haven't been
> > run make me even more so. Rubber can take a "set" as well as harden over
> > time, and if you start that up, the belt is quite likely to break or at
> > least loose some teeth. Timing belts are cheap, engines are not - if in
> > doubt, change the belt!
> >
> > You'll need the lock tool. I've heard of people getting the crank bolt
> out
> > without the tool, they lock the crank with the end of a pry bar (that's
> > also a good way to get hurt when it slips), but you really can't get it
> > back on tight enough without the tool. A couple of lengths of pipe are a
> > great help, and you'll want a big torque wrench on reassembly.
> >
> > Make sure the water pump gasket face is smooth and not pitted, otherwise
> > it will probably leak. Believe it or not, JB weld can often be used to
> fill
> > any pits, and you file it smooth after it hardens.
> >
> > The V8 is a "tad" tougher . . . a bunch of special tools needed, hundreds
> > of dollars in rollers, tensioners, the water pump, various seals and
> other
> > bits, and the first one I did took me almost 13 hours (spread out over
> > three days of sweating and cussing in the middle of August in Florida).
> >
> > Best Regards,
> >
> > Mike Arman
> > 90V8Q (still for sale)
> >
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> >
>
>
>
> --
> +-----------------------------------------------------------------+
> Walter R. Moore -- moorewr at gmail.com
>
> "We would rather be ruined than changed;
> We would rather die in our dread
> Than climb the cross of the moment
> And let our illusions die.”
> W.H. Auden
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--
Paul Caouette
sv Wild Iris (V40-133)
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