AHA blew all of it's oil out of the bottom of the engine

[Joshua Van Tol]

Cody is right on the money with this. Replace the seal, it is indeed cake.
I would recommend that anyone with one of these engines that has the water
cooled oil cooler replace the seal as a maintenance item. The reason these
fail is that the groove that captures the o-ring has sloped sides, which
allows the o-ring to expand and allows it to break, creating a gap that
leaks oil. Proper design would have had a straight sided groove for the
o-ring to sit in, positively capturing it.

On Mon, Dec 1, 2014 at 3:06 AM, Chris Talley <talleycm at gmail.com> wrote:

> Yes the oil cooler is the water cooled type. I assumed it was a failed
> seal, it just kind of made me sick to my stomach seeing oil pour out  like
> a waterfall. I have been using
> 5w-30 I think that should be thin enough, it has been super cold for a few
> days I am sure the oil was pretty thick. I think that seal may have been on
> it's way out for a while and the cold oil was the last straw.
>
> Thanks, Chris.
>
> On Sun, Nov 30, 2014 at 3:34 PM, Cody Forbes <cody at 5000tq.com> wrote:
>
> > I'm away from a PC so I can't remind myself of this, but does the AHA
> have
> > the water cooled oil cooler that fits between the block and oil filter?
> If
> > so those seals go bad ALL THE TIME. Replacement is cake, and just as
> simple
> > as the seal itself and problem solved for another 10 years. If I'm right
> > about the cooler type don't bother with more diagnostics, just replace
> the
> > seal - if its not the problem currently it will be soon ;-).
> >
> > If I'm wrong ill double check in ETKA from work tomorrow.
> >
> > As far as diagnostic to pinpoint the leak, I'd say put about 3/4 fill of
> > oil in it, clean thoroughly, disable the fuel/ignition (unplug crank
> > sensor), and have a somebody spin the engine on the starter. That should
> > build 10-15psi of oil pressure and you should be able to watch for the
> > leak. If not, plug the crank sensor (or whatever) back in and have them
> > start it briefly. If you need to drain the oil to fix just drain in a
> clean
> > container and re-use it. The 3/4 fill is so there's less to drain out.
> > Don't forget to top up when done.
> >
> > Are you running a winter oil? You might need to go for something thinner.
> > A thick oil will build a TON of pressure when its that cold and overwhelm
> > the pressure relief valve.
> >
> > -Cody Forbes (mobile)
> >
> > On Nov 30, 2014, at 5:06 PM, Chris Talley <talleycm at gmail.com> wrote:
> >
> > > Well the AHA managed to blow all of it's oil of the bottom of the
> engine,
> > > and I need some feedback.
> > >
> > > It had been relatively cold in the Pacific Northwest for a few days ( 0
> > > degrees with the windchill). I was warming up the car this morning
> > without
> > > any problems and I go to leave, rev the engine a little and the engine
> > > sounds like it has no oil in the crankcase and the oil light is comes
> on.
> > >
> > > I take a peek under the car and there is oil pouring out from the
> splash
> > > pan. I pulled the splash pan to investigate and it sure seemed to me
> that
> > > the source of the leak was the oil cooler/ block interface. There was
> > some
> > > evidence that there may have been a small leak in this area for some
> > time.
> > > My hypothesis is that the seal is broken but I am interested in others
> > > experience and opinions.
> > >
> > > My hopefully not completely stupid questions are;
> > >
> > > Is it likely my assessment is correct?
> > > Is there a way to test the hypothesis without removing the oil cooler
> and
> > > using a bunch of oil, and or damaging the engine?
> > > Is it wise/ acceptable to replace only the seal?
> > > Should anything else be replaced while I am in there?
> > > I am correct in thinking there is a thermostat and bypass for the oil
> > > cooler and it is not feed with oil until a certain temperature is
> > achieved?
> > >
> > > Thank you, Chris
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