[s-cars] Brake line help: Metric or ISO flare/connections?

Theodore Chen tedebearp at yahoo.com
Fri May 3 03:10:52 EDT 2002


--- Peter Schulz <peschulz at cisco.com> wrote:
> Use a 14mm open ended wrench on the hose nut and a 11mm brake line wrench
> on the hard line nut, loosen hose.
> Curse when the 11mm wrench slips and rounds the hard line nut.

don't you hate it when that happens?

> Now use a pair of vise-grips in place of the 11mm brake line wrench.
> Curse again when the hard line starts twisting.

you didn't need to.  once the wrench slipped and rounded the tube nut,
you would have had to redo the line anyway.  in order to remove the
tube nut and install a new one, you have to cut off the flare.

> Take out a propane torch and heat the hose /hard line connection.
> remove torch and extinguish the rubber on the hose end which is now aflame
> Curse again when some of the rubber embers hot my hand.
> Breathe sigh of relief when the hose finally comes off.
> Connect hose to hard line
> Connect hose to caliper
> reinstall caliper
> Pressure bleed brakes
>
> I need to replace that section of hard line now that I ended up twisting it
> - it's about a foot long and I figure that I will buy some SS hard line and
> a double flaring kit.

bundyweld works.

> Question is:
>
> ISO or Metric connections?
> http://www.mytoolstore.com/oldforge/olf04.html

they are definitely not inverted flare.  you want the ISO flares.
if you already got it off, you can verify this by examining the line
closely.  it should be a smooth rounded flare (hence the name
"bubble flare".

you can also ask on birabrakes.

what are you replacing the old hose with?

i'd say this is a good time to switch to AN flares.  get a 37 degree AN
flaring tool, and set it up for 3AN.  then you can attach the braided
steel hose directly to the line without having to use an adapter.

-teddy


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