[s-cars] Air leak or turbo whoosh?

[Ingo D. Rautenberg]

Elijah,

Maybe this will help to see if you have a leak somewhere.  We just had this
discussion on the 200q20v list a week ago (surprise).

-Ingo

----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Miller" <mikemilr at blackfoot.net>
To: "Dan Simoes" <dans at audifans.com>; "Phil Rose" <pjrose at frontiernet.net>
Cc: "200q20V mailing list" <200q20v at audifans.com>
Sent: Tuesday, May 21, 2002 12:50 PM
Subject: Re: update on problems/codes


> Here is the leak tester I made several yrs ago - works great - about $7 to
> build as I recall. Pressurize to 20 psi max. I've posted this serveral
> times. I'd loan it out but shipping would likely cost more than the
tester.
>
> http://www.blackfoot.net/~hlm5860/Tester.html
>
> mike
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Phil Rose <pjrose at frontiernet.net>
> To: Dan Simoes <dans at audifans.com>
> Cc: 200q20V mailing list <200q20v at audifans.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, May 21, 2002 10:22 AM
> Subject: Re: update on problems/codes
>
>
> > >Phil Rose wrote:
> > >
> > >>  Also I assume you've
> > >>  double-checked all hoses and hose clamps, since the "bucking"
symptom
> > >>  you mentioned is possibly from fuel cut-off caused by a hose "burp".
> > >
> > >That's an interesting theory.  How do you check hoses and clamps, other
> > >than visually?
> >
> > Well, the glib answer is to keep tightening all clamps 'till the
> > problem goes away. :-)
> >
> > As to non-visual checks for leaks and splits: Brett --a couple of
> > years ago-- had decribed a device he put together for measuring
> > intake-pressure leakage. I've been meaning to make something similar
> > since it can save a lot of time hunting for problem spots. Involves
> > simple some plumbing inserted at the entrance to the turbo intake
> > hose. Of course you still need to track down the location(s) of the
> > problem (audible hissing?) Brett, perhaps you can repost that?
> >
> > My "method" is just to tediously verify that every one of the intake
> > system clamps--especially ones that I or others have fiddled with
> > recently-- require "significant" tightening torque. I think boost
> > problems will typically be from a rather loose clamp--not one that
> > requires considerable effort to tighten further. And it's easy to
> > overlook some "little fellers" like the hard-to-reach 1" clamp below
> > the idle stabilizer valve.
> >
> > I once had the "burp" problem, which turned out to be the big clamp
> > at the throttle body. I had inadvertantly left it still needing one
> > or two full turns (*easy* ones) to  snug up. I think it's useful to
> > get a "feel" for snugness by using a direct driver on the clamp
> > screw--if possible. Using a ratchet handle is convenient and
> > generates more torque, but you have to be rather careful not to
> > overtighten (break?), although usually the only damage will be to the
> > clamp itself, which is not a big deal, unless you can't locate a
> > replacement.
> >
> > Phil
> > --
> >
> > Phil Rose Rochester, NY USA
> > '91 200q (130 Kmiles, Lago blue)
> > '91 200q   (57 Kmiles, Tornado red)
> > mailto:pjrose at frontiernet.net
> >
> > _______________________________________________
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> > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/200q20v
> >
>
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