[s-cars] Oil Cooler Pics posted...

[Paul Friedenberg]

Jesus teddy, simmer down! I am not emotionally attached to my setup, and as
I said I would like to go to stainless down the road. I am not getting
defensive about the setup, and I repect Scott's opinion and knowledge. I
have been known to defend him against pissed off, unresonable listers (names
witheld to protect the guilty), I have listened to different people
regarding the cooler, and I have come to the conclusion that it is
effective, and the only thing that I might like to change is lines, and yes,
the mounting points could be revised. I have only put about 200 miles on the
car since the installation, so it's not nearly finished, much like the rest
of the car. End of discussion, from my end that is.






>From: Theodore Chen <tedebearp at yahoo.com>
>To: s-car-list at audifans.com
>Subject: Re: [s-cars] Oil Cooler Pics posted...
>Date: Thu, 14 Nov 2002 11:06:38 -0800 (PST)
>
>
>--- Paul Friedenberg <paulunm at msn.com> wrote:
> >
> > I am not at all concerned with the rubber lines, their rating far
>exceeds
> > any pressure that the oil system would produce, even a cold start. Audi
>used
> > steel braided lines because they could, and they (the Germans) love to
> > overengineer everything. Rubber oil lines have been used for years
> > successfully by many manufacturers and individuals. Besides, the most
> > compelling arguement for rubber lines is-- You guessed it, Hap uses
> > rubber(lines that is)!
>
>it's clear that you've gotten emotionally attached to your setup, but
>for the benefit of others who might be tempted to do something similar,
>i'll suggest some bedtime reading in the form of carroll smith's books.
>
>in just about every book he's written, carroll smith says he would
>never use rubber hoses on a race car.  what do you think he would say to
>hose clamps?  reinforced rubber hoses might be ok for a while, but a
>few years of exposure to harsh environmental conditions can change things
>in a hurry.
>
>braided stainless steel hoses aren't much more, and they're more reliable.
>how much will it cost you to rebuild the engine if you spin a bearing?
>how much will it cost you to repair the car if you spin in your own oil
>and stuff the car?
>
>over the years, i've seen a number of cars come off the track with blown
>oil lines, almost always rubber (but sometimes improperly installed
>braided steel hose).  some of them were rubber with hose clamps, just
>like yours.  they failed right at the hose clamp junction, since that is
>the point of highest stress due to the compression of the clamp.
>
>while i'm at it, i'll point out that you should revise the mounting of
>the oil cooler.  one problem is that you used the tabs on the cooler
>for mounting it.  that's going to subject it to a lot of vibration, so
>at the very least, you should sandwich a layer of neoprene rubber between
>the tab and the bracket on the chassis.  tabs like those have been known
>to break, however, so i would rather mount the cooler using a channel
>or fingers lined with rubber.  carroll smith specifically recommends
>against using the tabs for mounting.
>
>the next issue is the orientation of the cooler.  it would be more
>effective if you turned it 180 degrees, so that oil enters and exits from
>the top instead of from the bottom.  when the oil enters and exits from
>the bottom, it will tend to take the path of least resistance, which
>would be the rows at the bottom.  turning it so that the oil enters
>and exits from the top will cause the oil to more fully circulate
>throughout the cooler.  another one of carroll smith's recommendations.
>
>this isn't to say that your setup is guaranteed to fail.  it may or it
>may not.  but the changes people are suggesting will reduce the chances of
>a failure (potentially catastrophic).  i don't believe audi engineers used
>braided steel lines just because they could, but because they wanted to
>make sure the lines didn't pop even after a few years.  how lucky do
>you feel?
>
> > The temps that I see on a hot day, at high speeds, is comprable to what
>you
> > would see with a normal oil cooler on a winter day, at non highway
>speeds,
> > ie the first tick mark, for lack of better terms. I cannot give you a
>number
> > for this value.
>
>did the later S4/S6 drop the numbers?  my '92 has numbers on the gauge -
>not at every tick mark, but the first tick is marked as 60.  the manual
>indicates that the next one is 100.
>
>not trying to criticize, but i've seen plenty of people get so proud
>of their setups that they don't want to know about the things that might
>be wrong with it, only to come into the pits with their tails between
>their legs after their setups fail.  if they were lucky, all they did
>was oil down the track, requiring the track to be shut down for 20 minutes
>so the cornerworkers can spread oil-dri all over the place.  and if
>they weren't lucky, they spun in their own oil and had to bring
>their cars home in a baggie.
>
>the first rule of doing home-grown modifications on your car is never
>get attached to any particular design.  you should be looking at it
>critically and asking yourself, "how's this thing gonna break?"  that's
>why i strongly recommend carroll smith's books.  he's had many years
>of experience, and broken many parts in the process of figuring out
>what works.  that's why i listen to people like scott j., who's worked
>on more audis and race cars than i can shake a stick at.  i might not
>always agree with him, but i listen.  perhaps you should do the same,
>instead of getting defensive about your setup.
>
>but hey, it's your car.
>
>-teddy
>
>
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