[s-cars] E brake cable R&R

[Igor Kessel]

HoosierMP at aol.com wrote:
>
> --
> [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ]
>
> I just received the parking brake cables to replace the seized ones on my 93
> S4  (only $21/ea from TPC)
>
> Has anybody done it? My Bentley does not show it. Do you need to drop the
> driveshaft and exhaust?

I did, Richard, in each and every big Audi that I owned. Yes, you can
greatly simplify the repair if you disconnect both the prop shaft at the
rear (don't forget to mark it up against the flange with a cold chisel
first), and the exhaust which will cheerefully hang by the remaining
front mount.

Below is the relevant fragment of my old writeup.
==================================================
Folks,

Now is a good time to check the parking brake cables. Since you need to
disconnect them for the seal replacement anyway. Chances are (in fact
about
99% chance) that at least the right one has worn the outer jacket
through
and is binding and freezing. Anyone replaced their right rear caliper
lately? In fact, who hasn't... He-he. This is as typical Audi as the
door
handle trigger or the EM studs on a 10v car. My advice to you, replace
the
cable at the first sign of binding. And replace the left one as well.
These
cars are very symmetrical. The left cable failed within a month after
the
right one on my last two big Audis.

To replace them as a pair you will need to disconnect the propeller
shaft from
the rear diff flange. Six 6-point 6mm Allen bolts, locktited as if they
were
designed to withstand 30 G in the outer space. MAKE SURE YOU SIT THAT
6mm ALLEN
100% SQUARE BEFORE YOU APPLY THAT HAND POWER OF YOURS! Don't ask me why
am I so
certain about it. Oh and when you bust one or two to hell, do yourself a
huge
favour and replace all 6 of them with the proper 12-pointers (a.k.a.
"triple
squared"). The VW p/n is 893-407-237 @ $1.90/ea.

Then just unclip the cables in the centre under the belly, by the
tensioner,
pry them out of the sheet metal, tilt the tensioner towards you with a
medium
pry bar, put a long 10mm x 1/4" drive socket on a long extension with a
U-joint
and release the tension. After which unhook both cables and pull them
out to the
back of the car.

The Right seal goes out and then back in exactly as Fred describes, word
for
word. Cost of seal - $3 from Rod.

The Left seal is a bit more involved. Huge - 122mm DIA. Cost $50 from
the
dealer, that's with my discount. Best part - no need to remove the rear
and
the central mufflers. Bentley is wrong about that. I disconnected the
beefy
exhaust mounts and only left it hanging on the doughnut of the central
resonator as not to strain the EM studs. I then swung the whole exhaust
10-15
cm to the side and that had provided all the needed room. Also you can't
pry
that huge thing out of the diff with a pry bar. Bentley is wrong about
that
also. The whole car shakes but the seal stays put. I used a 3-hand
puller
turned inside out against a harrow pry bar paid across the seal flange.

Both seals sit at the depth of 7.16-7.36mm given the parallax induced by
my
hanging upside down with a Mitutoyo in my teeth. You absolutely need at
least a
replica of Audi tool(s). It is not that there is no room to swing a
mallet - in
fact there is plenty of it. You need the flange that stop the seal from
entering
too deep in the diff, and nom the long M8x1.25 stud won't seat the seals
squarely. I guarantee that they will end up cocked in the bore. At least
mine
did and I had a bitch of a time straigtening up the seals after the
fact. I will
draw a sketch with dimensions for the needed tools, so next time I am
around
this job I will get those drivers machined out of Aluminium.

I hardly lost any GL-5 while doing the job. Maybe 100-200 ml tops. Most
of it had
leaked out when I popped the huge left seal out coz it's flange was
below the
"waterline". Refilled with some Red Line GL-5, hardly 1/3 of a 1 L
bottle went
in. This stuff stinks! Invest in plenty of cardboard to toss under your
car and
in some good latex gloves. BTW, Pep Boys now sells excellent gloves!

Igor Kessel

--
Igor Kessel
two turbo quattros