[s-cars] S-clutch replacement part 1

CLAG500 at aol.com CLAG500 at aol.com
Tue Sep 24 10:54:43 EDT 2002


I've gotten a few requests for a write up on this so here is part 1. More episodes to follow.

 This procedure is for doing an S4 clutch change with the car on the ground
elevated on jack stands. This write up is not intended as a substitute for
the Bentley service manual.

 Parts: Clutch kit ( Clutch disk, pressure plate, throw out bearing, pilot
needle bearing and alignment tool with splines ) .  Other parts: CV joint
gaskets (dealer only $4ea.) and 6 bolts with nuts to replace the ones from
the downpipe to the cats. Optional parts: Rear crankshaft seal, trans input
shaft seal, driveshaft flange seals.  All of these are a piece of cake with
the trans out so now’s the time!

1) Loosening the bolts: First off remove the exhaust, middle cross member and
heat shield.I left the down pipe in place. Probably be easier with it out.
 There are 9 different kinds of bolts on the bell housing. You need to mark
them and where they go. The Bentley has a diagram but it’s easier if they’re
marked. I bought a 4 dollar organizer at Lowes to put all the parts in as I
took them off and marked them. If you’re doing this on the ground you need to
jack up the tail of the trans to get to the 2 bottom bolts that are blocked
by the sub-frame. The starter is held in by the bell housing bolts as well.
Just prop it somewhere out of the way. (I hope you disconnected the battery!)

2) Driveshafts: Remove the cover under the passenger side drive flange. Drive
shaft positions should be marked with a paint marker or chisel.  The half
shafts need to be loosened with 12 point star bits NOT torx. These are
available at most Auto parts chains. These are not that hard to break loose.
Tie these up and out of the way.
The rear driveshaft cover is held in place with spring clips. Just pry them
off with a screwdriver and pull it off. The rear driveshaft is held in place
by 6 mm allen head bolts that are red loctited on. These must be heated with
a torch to break them loose. Make sure that the allen bit fits in there
tight! Once you get the driveshafts all loose put some plastic bags over the
ends to keep the CV joints clean and to keep the grease from getting all over
the place. Don’t take all of the bolts out of the bell housing yet.

2) Removing everything else: Get a jack under the front of the motor or make
something like the special brace shown in the Bentley. Jack up the front of
the motor.
Shift linkage: Mark the position of the linkage with paint or tape or
whatever. This will save some adjustment later. The Bentley says to put the
trans in third gear then loosen the linkage bolts and pull the shifter back
in the direction of fourth gear. If you want to save a couple of hours of
struggling with this just unbolt the linkage from the trans. Remove the
mounting flange from the passenger side of the trans. This will make it
easier to get to the linkage and the slave. The linkage is attached to the
trans with a chrome hooded nut right next to the slave. It can only go back
on in one position so it’s not a big deal. While you’re in position go ahead
and take out the slave. Only one bolt. Comes out real easy. Goes in
like….well we’ll get to that later. On the re-assembly. The pro-con ten
cable guide comes off with one bolt and pulls right out. No problem. There
are 2 electrical connectors that need to be removed one on each side near the
drive flanges.

3) Pulling the beast out: Jack up the front of the engine and get your
transmission jack in place. Don’t try this without a transmission jack! Make
sure the trans is secure on the jack. Take out the remaining bell housing
bolts and pull the trans back.  You may have to wiggle it some. Pull it
straight back until it is clear of the down pipe then lower it down and tilt
it back. It’s a very tight squeeze with the down pipe on. It will get stuck
on the steering rack if you tilt it back before it is clear. Tilting the
engine back as much as possible helps. The half shafts also need to be moved
around a bit to get the trans out. You can push the trans one way and get one
out and then do the other side. Lower the trans and pull it back as far as
possible. Take a well deserved break.

Chad Tobin




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