[s-cars] Re: PS pump leaking

[Brian Powell]

> In the past I have seen reference made to a seal repair kit for the PS
> pump=
> .  I would appreciate it if someone would send me the part number and
> any a=
> dvice as to the difficulty of this repair.  Thanks in advance for any
> and a=
> ll help in this matter.
>

Funny, I just posted it on the 20v list, as I need to do it on my 20v
(they use the exact same pump as the urS cars (with a different pulley).

Audi PS Pump Rebuild Kit:  035 198 049A  (retails for around $45)
You should also get a seal kit for all of the banjo fittings

Instructions from Richard Hoffman:

The kit is indeed a kit of seals.  If you aren't noticing any noise and
didn't run the pump dry, then there will be no wear on any of the metal
parts. Should cost $45-$60. I did the disassembly in my metal drain pan
as
the pump is full of hydraulic fluid and this saved extensive bench
clean-up
:)
Just so you know, the S6 PS pump uses the same rebuild kit and the
internals
are identical to the CQ pump.  The difference is in the mounting, the
pulley, and the hose connections.
It helps to loosen the front/center section of the core support just to
get
a little more room to work on the pump.  Removal is straight-forward -
loosen the mounting bolts, then it has a tensioner. The belt is a tight
fit
between the shroud and pulley.  The fittings are 19, 22, and 25mm for
the
hoses (if I remember correctly)

Once you've got it out, the pulley should come off first.  I jammed a
screwdriver through the pulley holes and used the appropriate allen
wrench
(5 or 6mm) and it was no problem.

Now you can take off the big mounting bracket/shroud.  3 10mm bolts

Now comes the messy part.  I believe there are 4 10mm bolts holding the
whole thing together.  Pull apart the front section with the X-plugs
first.
Pull gently and gradually.  Inside this section, you can see a brass
ring
and see the pistons as they are driven by the eccentric lobe.  Try to
keep
the ring in there, its somewhat hard to put back.  I cleaned everything
out
with spray carb cleaner.

At this point, position the pump so that the surface you just exposed
points
up.  The center piece can be lifted upwards but is held on by 4
additional
bolts.  You'll notice a large round O-Ring here and inside you will
find the
RSFH.  That is, the rubber seal from hell.  It's shaped like a big
malformed
letter H and has a nylong support.  It sits in a rather odd piece of
aluminum. This is where it gets a little fuzzy for me.  The important
thing
is that you note the orientation of the aluminum piece with respect to
the
center section.  These parts can all be cleaned in carb cleaner dip or
with
the spray.  Brake cleaner also works but smells worse.

The very bottom section now contains the vane pump for the power
steering.
The vanes can be pulled out and cleaned but you must put them back in
the
correct orientation.  They can only go in 2 ways and one of them is
right :)
Basically they must sit flush with the top and bottom surfaces of the
vane
carrier.  They look square but are in fact rectangular. It's easy
enough to
tell which is correct.  If you put them in incorrectly, you will
destroy the
pump.  Just take your time, make sure its good and clean, and inspect
everything very closely.

Reassembly is easy.  The RSFH and its support go in fairly easily.  Put
just
a drop of pentosin on the seals and smear it around.  This helps keep
them
soft and keeps them from perma-bonding to the sides of the pump. The
large
o-ring has to be stretched into its little groove as you tighten the
pump
down.  Then, when re-installed, fill the fittings with pentosin and
turn it
a few times by hand to get the pump "primed"

To purge the system and ensure it is fully bled, turn the steering wheel
lock-to-lock a few times with the motor shut off.  Repeat with motor
running, then top up the fluid.  Repeat again and you should be good.

Cheers,
Brian