[s-cars] (broken crank pin ?)

Fred Munro munrof at sympatico.ca
Thu Jan 2 08:54:15 EST 2003


Hi Joern;

This is very good info - I hadn't thought about this before. I explains why
the factory put the locking paste under the bolt head only on my 200q. There
was no factory locking paste on my S4 crank pulley bolt but the bolt threads
had lubricant on them. In both cases there would be little force on the
crank when loosening the bolt.
When I installed the bolt on the S4 I put Loctite blue on the treads and
under the head on the theory that if it came loose it would ruin my entire
day - I will have to watch for the problem with the key at the next timing
belt change. The plus side is I don't use air tools on this job - just a 6
foot (2 metre) bar and good old muscle power.

Thanks for the info!

Fred Munro
'94 S4


-----Original Message-----
From: s-car-list-admin at audifans.com
[mailto:s-car-list-admin at audifans.com]On Behalf Of joeamund
Sent: December 25, 2002 10:56 AM
To: Paul Triggiani; s-car-list at audifans.com
Subject: RE: [s-cars] (broken crank pin ?)


Paul!
This is a common problem even with the factory tool to hold the damper and
specially if a large airdriven tool is used. The centerbolt is
loctited(thread
secured with a chemical paste)from the factory or previous owner and you get
extra friction due to this.

Meaning when you try to loose the bolt from the crankshaft you twist both
the
crank and bolt against the locking key on the small belt-drive pulley. The
material on this pulley is not at all strong and the result is a broken key.
When you are in this situation you must lock the flywheel as well and
carefully heat the bolt head without damaging the rubber on the harmonic
damper.

No this was not at all a good christmas present but it does not neccesarily
mean your valves are bent or damaged unless you heard noices when cranking
the
engine.

Make sure you do NOT use a air driven tool to install it again and lube the
shoulder of the bolt together with  the special damper-tool and a large
enough
torquewrench to reach the  prescribed 450 Nm.

Good luck.regards Joern MTM RS


>===== Original Message From "Paul Triggiani" <ptrig at gwi.net> =====
>This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
>--
>[ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ]
>Merry Christmas to all and Help!
>
>I realize I am rarely heard from on this list but I read it regularly.  I
have great respect for the extensive knowledge shared regularly by the
members
and I hope someone will be able to help me out.  I am in big trouble I
think.
I took my ' 94 S-4 to my local mechanic to have the timing belt done along
with everything usually done at that time.  He had a complete print out from
all data and all the necessary tools to complete the job.  Everything went
well until he attempted to remove the  bolt securing the harmonic damper.
He
was unable to remove it no matter how much force he used.  He had a tool to
secure the damper while applying force to the bolt.  He eventually gave up
and
I told him to replace everything else and I would give Audi a shot at it.
He
put everything back together and the car would not start.  After checking
all
the timing marks he noticed that the timing mark on the pulley and the mark
on
the flywheel no longer lined up.  He used the pulley to time the camshaft.
It
seems that somehow the pulley move on the crankshaft.  How can this be?
Isn't
it keyed? What are the chances that valves were bent when he attempted to
start it?  I fear I am in big trouble and I am not sure what to do.  Should
he
attempt to align the cam mark with the flywheel mark and try to start it
again?   I cannot understand how the damper could move on the crankshaft.
Any
and all feedback would be appreciated.  This is one hell of a Christmas
present.
>
>Best wishes to all
>Sincerely,
>Paul Triggiani
>'94
>S-4 very sick
>--
>
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>S-CAR-List mailing list
>S-CAR-List at audifans.com
>http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/s-car-list


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