[s-cars] I'm finally studly... (long)

[TM]

I got the admittedly super-pricey knurled stainless steel
tool from Ultimate Garage which is much, much nicer than
that plastic tool. However, samstagsales.com has a very
similar tool for much less money, a rather lame replacement
for studs, though.

Taka

-----Original Message-----
From: Scott Munger [mailto:mungerts at uneedspeed.net]
Sent: Wednesday, June 25, 2003 7:34 PM
To: 'TM'; '* S List'; 'BIRA ORG'
Subject: RE: [s-cars] I'm finally studly... (long)


I now see the advantages, wise one.

BTW, a "new to me" item on the topic,  I found this little black rod in
the spare tire jack tool set.  Take 1 lug out, thread the rod in, then
take the others out.  Makes getting the wheel on/off very easy and the
rotor doesn't go anywhere when you take the brakes off.  If the rotors
were hot, it may just melt the little rod... maybe I'd upgrade to a stud
from the local Home Depot.

--Scott Munger
'93 S4
'97 Cabriolet



> -----Original Message-----
> From: s-car-list-admin at audifans.com
> [mailto:s-car-list-admin at audifans.com]On Behalf Of TM
> Sent: Wednesday, June 25, 2003 4:02 PM
> To: mungerts at uneedspeed.net; '* S List'; 'BIRA ORG'
> Subject: RE: [s-cars] I'm finally studly... (long)
>
>
> Scott-
> The big pro to using studs is that it makes it much, much easier to
> mount wheels because you're not fighting to hold the wheel on the hub
> while trying to thread a lug bolt into the hub- the studs hold the
> wheel easily, making the job much easier, whether it is trackside for
> an autox or driver's ed event or on the side of the road in case of a
> flat tire or simply for the biannual tire swap if you're in the snow
> belt.
>
> The con to using studs is that stud replacement, should you make a
> mistake and damage the hub, requires removal and replacement of the
> hub (to the best of my knowledge, hubs are not repairable easily or
> cheaply),
> wheel bearing and the offending stud. Also, the cost of the studs as
> well
> as getting the length correct can be a minus.
>
> Taka
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: s-car-list-admin at audifans.com
> [mailto:s-car-list-admin at audifans.com] On Behalf Of Scott Munger
> Sent: Tuesday, June 24, 2003 11:53 PM
> To: 'steve powers'; 'northwest audi enthusiasts'; '* S List'; 'BIRA
> ORG'
> Subject: RE: [s-cars] I'm finally studly... (long)
>
>
> Would you mind explaining the pros/cons of lugs versus studs?
>
> --Scott Munger
> '93 S4
> '97 Cabriolet
>
>
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: s-car-list-admin at audifans.com
> > [mailto:s-car-list-admin at audifans.com]On Behalf Of steve powers
> > Sent: Tuesday, June 24, 2003 8:33 PM
> > To: 'northwest audi enthusiasts'; '* S List'; 'BIRA ORG'
> > Subject: [s-cars] I'm finally studly... (long)
> >
> >
> > (cross-posted to BIRA, S-cars and NW Audi)
> >
> > Since installing my BIRA Sys 6 brake setup, I wanted to
> install wheel
> > studs to make the wheel installation easier. At issue is the
> > additional 3mm of rotor hat thickness which sort of defeats the
> > hub-centric wheels where you put on the wheel, spin and slip in a
> > bolt - all at once. Studs
> > seemed like the best way to go, so I began researching the problem.
> >
> > The urS6/S4s use a pretty hefty lug bolt size (14x1.5mm).
> Removing one
>
> > lug bolt and measuring several times with a 16p nail,
> hooking the head
>
> > on the backside of the hub, I came up with a stud length target of
> > 60mm overall length. I figured this length should allow for a
> > to-be-sourced lug nut and still not protrude from the wheels.
> >
> > Calling a local vendor for H&R lugs I explained how I measured and
> > what I wanted. They got the lugs and I took them home. They were
> > wrong - too long by about 20mm! The studs consist of three areas:
> > hub thread, waist,
> > and lug thread. The length H&R quotes is lug thread. It makes
> > some sense
> > as you are supposed to thread in the lugs, bottoming them out
> > in the hub
> > on the waist of the stud. Re-order, this time in H&R's 40mm length.
> >
> > Meanwhile, I need some nuts. The stock wheels (and my 3 piece HRE
> > wheels) use a ball seat. The rub is that there just aren't any
> > aftermarket ball seat lug nuts. I checked with Tire Rack and others,

> > including searching the web. You can get the standard steel ones,
> > which I did. (Note: most aftermarket wheels use cone seats and you
> > won't have this problem - it's just that mine didn't)
> >
> > I did discover though that Porsche also used 14x1.5mm lugs. They
> > previously used lug nuts (alloy even!) on all of their cars but
> > recently went to a funky lug bolt setup with spinning ball seat
> > collar. I went to the local P-car parts dept. and bought one of the
> > older
> black anodized
> > allot lug nuts. It was the right thread pitch and may fit, though I
> > wouldn't know until I installed the studs.
> >
> > I got the new studs today. I immediately removed a lug bolt
> and put in
>
> > a stud. It fits! I jacked up the car and installed all the studs
> > using red loctite and torqued them to 100 lb-ft with a double nut. I
> > put the wheel
> > back on and tightened a couple of the steel nuts on. I
> measured to see
> > if the stud would bottom out on the Porsche lugnut. Nope, it will
> > work. Yippee!
> >
> > Because I only had one Porsche nut, I installed the steel
> nuts. I have
>
> > found an aftermarket supplier (www.boothedesign.com) for Porsche lug

> > nuts in polished stainless. At $7 each, they're cheaper
> than the local
>
> > Porsche dealer, who wanted $10 apiece for the weaker (but
> > lighter) alloy
> > ones. Boothe Design can also provide matching locks.
> >
> > Moral of the story: order the 14x1.5mm studs in 40mm length and hope

> > your aftermarket wheels have cone seats. (you will need
> ball seat nuts
>
> > for the stock wheels)
> >
> > Steve Powers
> > 95.5 S6 Avant
> >
> > _______________________________________________
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> >
>
>
>
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