[s-cars] up a creek without a paddle: timing belt on S6

[Matt Russell]

Well, there is one more trick... But this is certainly a old school mechanic
trick (how I learned it) and I have NEVER tried this with an audi, only vw's
and the crank bolt is not quite as tight...

This will ONLY work if the motor spins the correct way.... And can be quite
DANGEROUS if you don't know what the implications may be...

You can use the engine to break the bolt free, by hitting the starter very
quickly with the plugs disconnected.  I'm not qoing to go into detail till I
hear from somebody else who will get the gist of what I'm talking about and
can say yay or nay first...  Besides, this bolt may be in too tight for this
trick to work...

...and it's Sunday now, you may have figured out something by this point...

(Flame suit on...)

-Matt, co
92 s4




On 10/4/03 6:50 PM, "s-car-list-request at audifans.com"
<s-car-list-request at audifans.com> wrote:

> Message: 1
> From: "Fred Munro" <munrof at sympatico.ca>
> To: "Rokas Reipa" <rokas at wam.umd.edu>, <s-car-list at audifans.com>
> Subject: RE: [s-cars] up a creek without a paddle: timing belt on S6
> Date: Sat, 4 Oct 2003 11:59:33 -0400
>
> Hi Rokas;
>
> There are a few other ways to lock the crank, but none as satisfactory or
> safe as the crank locking tool.
>
> I used a 12 mm Allen wrench to lock the first 10V engine I did. With the
> socket on the bolt, the short leg of the Allen key fit in between the socket
> and the pulley and locked on the step in the pulley that engages the crank
> lock tool. I set the long leg of the Allen key against a convenient and
> solid part of the engine and managed to break the bolt loose. The entire
> set-up was so insecure I had to place guards to prevent catching the Allen
> key with my face if it should slip. I ordered the crank lock tool right
> after that job.
>
> An old standby is to bring No.1 piston to the bottom of the compression
> stroke, stuff a bunch of soft cotton rope down the cylinder, and compress
> the rope, thereby locking the crank in position. The problem with this "old
> standby" is that it works great on North American engines with 60 ft-lb on
> the crank bolt but puts a lot of strain on the crank, rod, piston, and head
> with 330 ft-lb plus thread locker on the Audi bolt. Another problem is that
> on some engines the thread locker is under the bolt head, locking the bolt
> to the pulley. The crank lock tool locks the pulley. If you lock the crank
> and the pulley turns with the bolt, you may shear the key cast into the
> pulley, requiring the purchase of a new pulley.
>
> Personally, I wouldn't touch this job on the 20V engine without the crank
> lock.
>
> Good luck!
>
>
> Fred Munro
> '94 S4