Subject: [s-cars] CV joint boot ripped

[Vincent Frégeac]

Paul,

As Igor, I didn't have to remove the sway bar from the body. I had the
ball joint out fairly easily - I mean no torch, no hammer - but having
the ball joint back in place was a hell of a job. I pop the ball joint
out as it was part of the procedure for my previous Audi but if I
understand well the last post from Igor and the axle should go out with
the ball joint still in place. It's really the way to go. It should save
you a lot of sweat and censured words as everything except the ball
joint goes really straightforward.

Besides, I would had a few comments between 7 and 8. When the CV joint
is still on the axle, there is, from the outer side to the inner side, a
circlip, the CV joint, a plastic spacer washer and a metal dished
washer. When you push the axle with the axle bolt - step 7 - the two
washers will either stick the CV joint or stay on the axle. Make sure
they do not fall. First, they are easy to loose and, second, you have to
put them back with the same orientation. The plastic spacer washer have
its raised side toward the wheel, the metal dished washer toward the
tranny.

Also, if you want to keep your CV joint for a long time, you'd better
remove the old grease. There is a fast way and a purist way. The fast
way: press the tube of new grease firmly against the center of the CV
joint and empty it. The new grease push the old one out of the CV joint.
Sweep the old grease and that's it. As the CV joint hold a bit more than
a tube, I use 1 1/2 tube per CV joint to make sure I've pushed out all
the old grease. I'm a bit on the picky side from time to time. I always
replace CV boots by pair so I buy two CV Boot Kits and a spare tube of
CV grease. Now, the purist way: use brake cleaner to remove all the old
grease before you apply the fast way. You'll need one can of brake
cleaner per CV joint and you'd better make sure no balls fall on the
ground. I've used the purist way once 12 years ago and used the fast way
since - 6 boots. The oldest boot with the fast way have seen 80Kmiles
without any problem - before it needed another boot - so it seems the
purist way is really for purists.

BTW, you'll find a very well described procedure - 28 steps! - at
http://20v.org/drvshaft.htm. This procedure is for the 90Q20V/CQ20V but
you can apply all this procedure to the urS except the steps 6, 7, 24,
25, 26 which deal with the ball joint you shouldn't have to remove in
your case, according to Igor.

HTH,



Vincent.
'96 //S6 Two front outer CV boots
'90 90Q20V Four front outer CV boots

-----Message d'origine-----
De : s-car-list-admin at audifans.com
[mailto:s-car-list-admin at audifans.com] De la part de Igor Kessel
Envoyé : 4 sept. 2003 20:53
À : Mike Platt
Cc : paul.heneghan at bbc.co.uk; Scar
Objet : Re: Subject: [s-cars] CV joint boot ripped

Mike Platt wrote:

> Hi Paul,
>
> Just did my right front outer a month ago. By the
> Genuine LoBro kit from a good foreign parts store. It
> comes with bolt, bands, clip, boot, and grease.
> Cost... about $20
>
> Here is what you need to do( from what I remember):
> 1) Loosen hub bolt with car on ground.
> 2) Jack car up, remove tire.
> 3) Disconnect sway bar from body (the hardest part of
> job, I felt.
> 4)Disconnect ball joint, I needed a pry pipe, PB
> blaster, and a hammer.
> 5)Remove  bolt for CV joint.
> 6) pull shaft out
> 7) Put bolt back on joint and tighten to remove CV
> joint from shaft
> 8) Put on new boot, circlip and repack joint with
> grease
> 9) Slide everything back on shaft. Watch those
> splines, or you'll be filing them down to get them to
> realign (don't ask)
> 10)Put joint back in hub
> 11) put bolt back on, snug up
> 12)Put ball joint back in. I used antiseize on it and
> cleaned out mounting points.
> 13)Reconnect sway bar to body. Real tough part. I used
> a jack to put pressure on bar. Two man job for me: 1
> kid and I.
> 14) Lower car and torque bolt to specs. I think it was
> 150lbs plus 1/4 turn in the Bentley.
>
> Took me about 3 hrs. If there is a way around the bar
> issue, Id like to know how. I couldn't get the ball
> joint out until, I did that.....or you can pay a
> garage about $150 to do it all.
>
> Good Luck.
>

Mike,
I didn't do the §§ 3 and 4. If you turn the wheel to the extreme locked
position the axle leaves the hub rather cheerfully.

--
Igor Kessel
two turbo quattros

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