Subject: [s-cars] CV joint boot ripped

[Mike Platt]

You see, I have once again found the best way to make
a simple job most difficult!!! I'll keep these notes
for the other side. Thanks!!
Mike
--- Vincent_Frégeac <vfregeac at sympatico.ca> wrote:
> Paul,
>
> As Igor, I didn't have to remove the sway bar from
> the body. I had the
> ball joint out fairly easily - I mean no torch, no
> hammer - but having
> the ball joint back in place was a hell of a job. I
> pop the ball joint
> out as it was part of the procedure for my previous
> Audi but if I
> understand well the last post from Igor and the axle
> should go out with
> the ball joint still in place. It's really the way
> to go. It should save
> you a lot of sweat and censured words as everything
> except the ball
> joint goes really straightforward.
>
> Besides, I would had a few comments between 7 and 8.
> When the CV joint
> is still on the axle, there is, from the outer side
> to the inner side, a
> circlip, the CV joint, a plastic spacer washer and a
> metal dished
> washer. When you push the axle with the axle bolt -
> step 7 - the two
> washers will either stick the CV joint or stay on
> the axle. Make sure
> they do not fall. First, they are easy to loose and,
> second, you have to
> put them back with the same orientation. The plastic
> spacer washer have
> its raised side toward the wheel, the metal dished
> washer toward the
> tranny.
>
> Also, if you want to keep your CV joint for a long
> time, you'd better
> remove the old grease. There is a fast way and a
> purist way. The fast
> way: press the tube of new grease firmly against the
> center of the CV
> joint and empty it. The new grease push the old one
> out of the CV joint.
> Sweep the old grease and that's it. As the CV joint
> hold a bit more than
> a tube, I use 1 1/2 tube per CV joint to make sure
> I've pushed out all
> the old grease. I'm a bit on the picky side from
> time to time. I always
> replace CV boots by pair so I buy two CV Boot Kits
> and a spare tube of
> CV grease. Now, the purist way: use brake cleaner to
> remove all the old
> grease before you apply the fast way. You'll need
> one can of brake
> cleaner per CV joint and you'd better make sure no
> balls fall on the
> ground. I've used the purist way once 12 years ago
> and used the fast way
> since - 6 boots. The oldest boot with the fast way
> have seen 80Kmiles
> without any problem - before it needed another boot
> - so it seems the
> purist way is really for purists.
>
> BTW, you'll find a very well described procedure -
> 28 steps! - at
> http://20v.org/drvshaft.htm. This procedure is for
> the 90Q20V/CQ20V but
> you can apply all this procedure to the urS except
> the steps 6, 7, 24,
> 25, 26 which deal with the ball joint you shouldn't
> have to remove in
> your case, according to Igor.
>
> HTH,
>
>
>
> Vincent.
> '96 //S6 Two front outer CV boots
> '90 90Q20V Four front outer CV boots
>
> -----Message d'origine-----
> De : s-car-list-admin at audifans.com
> [mailto:s-car-list-admin at audifans.com] De la part de
> Igor Kessel
> Envoyé : 4 sept. 2003 20:53
> À : Mike Platt
> Cc : paul.heneghan at bbc.co.uk; Scar
> Objet : Re: Subject: [s-cars] CV joint boot ripped
>
> Mike Platt wrote:
>
> > Hi Paul,
> >
> > Just did my right front outer a month ago. By the
> > Genuine LoBro kit from a good foreign parts store.
> It
> > comes with bolt, bands, clip, boot, and grease.
> > Cost... about $20
> >
> > Here is what you need to do( from what I
> remember):
> > 1) Loosen hub bolt with car on ground.
> > 2) Jack car up, remove tire.
> > 3) Disconnect sway bar from body (the hardest part
> of
> > job, I felt.
> > 4)Disconnect ball joint, I needed a pry pipe, PB
> > blaster, and a hammer.
> > 5)Remove  bolt for CV joint.
> > 6) pull shaft out
> > 7) Put bolt back on joint and tighten to remove CV
> > joint from shaft
> > 8) Put on new boot, circlip and repack joint with
> > grease
> > 9) Slide everything back on shaft. Watch those
> > splines, or you'll be filing them down to get them
> to
> > realign (don't ask)
> > 10)Put joint back in hub
> > 11) put bolt back on, snug up
> > 12)Put ball joint back in. I used antiseize on it
> and
> > cleaned out mounting points.
> > 13)Reconnect sway bar to body. Real tough part. I
> used
> > a jack to put pressure on bar. Two man job for me:
> 1
> > kid and I.
> > 14) Lower car and torque bolt to specs. I think it
> was
> > 150lbs plus 1/4 turn in the Bentley.
> >
> > Took me about 3 hrs. If there is a way around the
> bar
> > issue, Id like to know how. I couldn't get the
> ball
> > joint out until, I did that.....or you can pay a
> > garage about $150 to do it all.
> >
> > Good Luck.
> >
>
> Mike,
> I didn't do the §§ 3 and 4. If you turn the wheel to
> the extreme locked
> position the axle leaves the hub rather cheerfully.
>
> --
> Igor Kessel
> two turbo quattros
>
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