[s-cars] Pump to Accumulator hose rebuilding

[Tom Green]

Scott,

That is a fine piece of work, and I repeat it below so perhaps it will  
be read by more.
Thanks for taking the time for the detailed procedure.  I now feel  
confident that the
local hydraulic hose shop could do the job.  My preference is still to  
ship to Spokane Hose
for repair.   If you take note of Igor's report of his repair, they  
installed swivel fittings at each end,
I assume when brazing on a SAE hose end.   This eliminates the concern  
over maintaining the
fitting alignment and resulting stress on the hose if it is not.   
Having a competent local shop that
will do it while I wait may override that concern.
If I can come up with a hose to rebuild, I think it would be  
advantageous to have a spare floating
around this list.

Tom '95 S6

On Thursday, 9 December 2004 at 1137 AM , SJM Autotechnik  
<sjmauto at comcast.net> wrote:

Tom,

I have had several of these pump to accumulator hoses rebuilt by a local
Hydraulic hose shop that caters to the operators of heavy equipment,  
Earth
moving, caterpillar, Semi-Trucks etc.

The outer protective foam rubber can be sliced down the middle to  
remove,
and then later zip tied back around the repaired hose.

The original crimped on ferrule at each end of the rubber section, can  
be
cut off by "carefully" using a hack saw or by using a dremel cutting  
wheel,
while avoiding cutting into the original metal banjo fitting ends which  
are
barbed where they are inserted into the hose.

There is nothing special about this hose with the exception that there  
is a
double barbed metal pipe in the middle of the hose which has an orifice  
on
one end, and a screen on the other end.

The center crimp ferrule can be cut off, then the hose is then sliced  
open
and this double barbed pipe is removed. The hydraulic shop can insert  
the
double barbed pipe half way down into the new piece of replacement hose,
and have a new ferrule crimped onto the  center of the hose at the  
location
of this pipe.

Before having the hose rebuilt, you should note the relative position of
the two banjo fitting ends  to each other and make sure the hydraulic  
shop
maintains the same position when installing the new piece of hose and
machine crimping each end.

I like to cut off the 3 ferrules and remove the double barbed pipe  
myself,
to avoid having the hydraulic shop damage the the two metal end  
sections.

My local shop uses replacement hose rated to 3000psi, the Audi factory
manual states the system pressure test should show 140 bar (2030psi) at  
the
brake servo port.

Some shops won't do the standard replacement using the machine crimped
ferrules, and will require that they braze on new threaded ends to the
metal pipes with banjo fittings, so it will accept a standard  
replacement
section of hose which already has crimped on fittings.

HTH

Scott Mockry
SJM Autotechnik
<http://www.sjmautotechnik.com/>www.SJMAutotechnik.<http:// 
www.sjmautotechnik.com/>com

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