[s-cars] Pulling Codes on S6

[Tom Green]

You guys are making my head hurt !  Good analysis ( from afar ) , Dave. 
  Except, it seems to advocate jumping right in to the most sensitive 
section of the engine without so much as a passing glance at the repair 
manual.  Even the Audi tech probably didn't do that, and you probably 
didn't mean that either for someone who doesn't know where this part is 
located.

The tech sounds like a stand up guy, Douglas.  Most would have just 
pulled code and said we need to replace sensor. Perhaps not having the 
part in stock helped.   If his connector cleaning didn't fix the 
problem, then you should have a check engine light when the car is 
running-- either an intermittent, steady, or occasional quick flash as 
it stores another fault code for the cps.  Many failures have been 
intermittent for a while, and the car would start after sitting for 30 
minutes for so, but don't depend on it.  If you never get another fault 
code, your problem is fixed ( I might follow-up with my own cleaning 
with Deoxit from Radio Shack).  If not, you can inspect the wires for a 
break ( probably see and feel the discontinuity even if the covering is 
intact, probably where it is clamped or bent).  And, I would read the 
Bentley before I attempted to change my own CPS.   I would read the 
Bentley before driving,  I would read the Bentley just for the heck of 
it.  I would not necessarily do everything the manual says, but I would 
look at the pictures at least.   (No, No connection Bentley Publishers 
)
You can source the CPS from Darin's s-cars.org parts direct at a good 
discount also.
HTH.  I think you already dodged one bullet with the failure out of 
town. The cost of one episode resulting in a repair out of town could 
pay for the VAG-COM or PRO-DIAG.

Tom '95 S6

On Dec 15, 2004, at 8:15 AM Dave Forgie  wrote:
>
> Ain't I good (actually, just lucky) to guess correctly!!  The CPS is 
> just a Hall
> Sender (i.e. a sophisticated magnet with wires).  It lives behind the 
> intake cam
> sprocket and therefore, to remove it you have to pull the sprocket 
> which means,
> at the very least, you need to slip the cam/timing belt off the 
> sprocket, clamp
> the belt so nothing moves and then pull the sprocket  off and change 
> the CPS.
> At worst, the exercise becomes a cam/timing belt change (c/w water 
> pump, idler
> pully, etc. etc.).  The CPS probably fails in the wiring, either  a 
> bad plug
> connection (clean and use Stabilant 22), or a break in the wiring 
> between the
> CPS plug and the magnet head (fixable) or a break right where the wire 
> enters
> into the magnetc enclosure (likely unfixable).  Try the 
> PartsConnection or
> Bimmerparts for lower pricing.  I think Bimmerparts had them recently 
> for under
> US$200.
>
> Good luck.
>
> Dave F.
>
> "D. H. Fifield" wrote:
>
>> Dave said:
>>
>> It will either be the cam position sensor (Code 2113) or the fuel pump
>> (no code).  <snip>
>>
>> Dave, you called it.  The tech said it is the cam position sensor. He 
>> pulled
>> the connection, cleaned it, plugged it back in, and it started.  He 
>> said it
>> would fail again tho.
>>
>> They want $790 to get one and install it, which is a hit my 
>> pocketbook can't
>> take right now.
>>
>> These are just hall sensors, right?  What's to go wrong?  Got to be an
>> electrical break somewhere. I seem to recall someone just writing 
>> something
>> on this.
>>
>> What's the collective wisdom on the list say?  The dealer does not 
>> have a
>> CPS, nor could they find one in the Twin Cities.  They say that they 
>> will
>> have to source one out of California.
>>
>> Need help hear guys.  Where is it located and how do I pull and fix 
>> it?
>>
>> Douglas in MN
>> 95.5 S//6 Avant
>> MTM1+,RS2EM,BIRA3,Samco's