[s-cars] Need Help w G-60 Brake Pad Change

Mon May 10 12:36:13 EDT 2004

I was talking about after you've put everything back. Piston retraction 
occurs before/as you remove the caliper. Yes, you should be wary of fluid 
level. It's a good time to change the fluid also. (hint, hint)

I use a contractor's L-shaped pry bar carefully applied against the pad 
back. I also use a wide putty knife to protect the disc - pry against putty 
knife vs. marking the disc.

YTMV (your tools may vary)

sp

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Peter Schulz" <pcschulz at comcast.net>
To: "steve powers" <steve at thepowers.net>; "Fifield, Douglas" 
<Douglas.Fifield at TENNANTCO.com>
Cc: <s-car-list at audifans.com>
Sent: Monday, May 10, 2004 9:26 AM
Subject: Re: [s-cars] Need Help w G-60 Brake Pad Change

> Steve/Doug:
>
> Oops.
>
> actually, you will need to retract the piston into the caliper, either 
> with
> a piston retractor tool ( glorified bolt with a plate) or a c clamp.
> two schools of thought on proceeding -
> A( make sure the brake fluid reservoir is not full, turn in tool or c 
> clamp
> and fluid will be forced back up the lines to the reservoir, or
> B, put a hose on the bleeder, end of the hose in a container with some
> fluid in it ( to prevent entry of air into the hose) and crack the bleeder
> valve to let the excess brake fluid drain into the container.
>
>
> Peter
>
>
> At 12:20 PM 5/10/2004, steve powers wrote:
> >there should be another step in between 12 and 13, namely pump up brake
> >pedal several times until feel returns. You need to reseat the pistons
> >against the pads. Otherwise, you may find yourself without brakes leaving
> >your driveway.
> >
> >Steve
> >
> >
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: "Peter Schulz" <pcschulz at comcast.net>
> >To: "Fifield, Douglas" <Douglas.Fifield at TENNANTCO.com>
> >Cc: <s-car-list at audifans.com>
> >Sent: Monday, May 10, 2004 7:25 AM
> >Subject: Re: [s-cars] Need Help w G-60 Brake Pad Change
> >
> >
> > > Doug:
> > >
> > > Pretty easy actually.
> > >
> > > Tools /equipment required:
> > >
> > > Jack
> > > Jackstand
> > > 17 mm socket and drive (breaker bar) to remove wheels
> > > 13 mm 6 point socket and drive (to remove caliper guide bolt)
> > > 15mm narrow open end wrench ( to prevent caliper guide pin from 
> > > rotating)
> > > wire hanger, short bungee cord ( to support caliper and prevent stress 
> > > on
> > > brake line)
> > > wire brush ( to clean loctite of guide bolt)
> > > loctite blue
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > 1. put car in gear and set ebrake...even better, also put a block
> > > ahead/behind the rear wheel on the opposing side of car.
> > > 2. loosen lugs ( just loosen -with wheel on ground)
> > > 3. Jack up front of car- and put jackstand under it too
> > > 4. remove wheel
> > > 5.  Loosen Caliper guide pins on caliper - you need a 13mm 6 point 
> > > socket
> > > for the bolt AND an narrow 15mm crescent or open ended wrench for the
> > > guide
> > > pin ( some folks grind a cheap 15mm open ended wrench, I use a bicycle
> > > cone
> > > wrench made by Park Tool co, available in most bike shops/
> > > 6. Important - when you remove both 13mm bolts on the guidepins, you 
> > > are
> > > freeing the caliper from the caliper carrier, you now need to support 
> > > the
> > > caliper (and NOT by the brake hose!!!!)
> > > Use a metal coat hanger, bungee cord, something, to prevent putting 
> > > stress
> > > on the brake hose - I usually use a short bungee cord and hang the 
> > > caliper
> > > from the strut body.  If you jack the ca high enough you could also 
> > > rest
> > > it
> > > on a milk crate, box, ,etc,
> > > 7. If applicable,. clean the locktite blue off the caliper guide bolts
> > > with
> > > a wire brush
> > > 8. pull the pads upward and out of the carrier - you might need to 
> > > sand or
> > > file some corrosion off the sides where the pads contact the carrier.
> > > remove the pad brake wear connector if applicable.
> > > 9. Install new pads - if wear sensor is applicable, put that pad on 
> > > the
> > > same side as the one that you removed,. pay attention to the routing 
> > > of
> > > the
> > > harness...and reconnect the sensor wire to the car harness.
> > > 10. Put the caliper over the pads - ensure that the pad springs are
> > > centered in the caliper.
> > > 11.  Put a dab of loctite blue on the caliper bolts and tighten them 
> > > to
> > > torque spec in Bentley.
> > > 12. reinstall wheel and torque bolts to 81 ft/lbs
> > > 13  Remove Jackstand, lower car.
> > > 14 Bed in pads using Mfr instructions
> > >
> > > HTH
> > > -Peter
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > At 09:13 AM 5/10/2004, you wrote:
> > >
> > > >Listers,
> > > >
> > > >Need to change the front pads on my 95.5 S6 Avant.  Have replacement
> > > >pads.
> > > >Pulled the wheels but had difficulty reconciling the Bentley diagrams
> > > >with
> > > >what I saw on the car.  Usually, I feel confident tackling mods and
> > > >repairs,
> > > >but with brakes, I don't want any mistakes.
> > > >
> > > >So, I'm asking for help.  If there is anyone in the Minneapolis/St. 
> > > >Paul
> > > >area that could lend me a knowledgeable hand, or if there are 
> > > >write-ups
> > > >out
> > > >there (hopefully with pictures) on how to change the front pads on 
> > > >the
> > > >stock
> > > >Girling calipers, I would be thankful.
> > > >
> > > >Have a track date in one week, so time is of the essence.
> > > >
> > > >TIA,
> > > >
> > > >Douglas shoeless in MN
> > > >95.5 //S6Avant - mine
> > > >98 Mercury Mountaineer - her work sled
> > > >98 Toyota RAV4 - for sale
> > > >73 BMW R60/5 - lonely in the garage
> > > >
> > > >_______________________________________________
> > > >S-CAR-List mailing list
> > > >S-CAR-List at audifans.com
> > > >http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/s-car-list
> > >
> > >
> > > Peter Schulz
> > > 1990 CQ (perpetually awaiting S2 3b engine transplant)
> > > 1991 200 20v TQW indigo mica
> > > 1991 200 20v TQW titanium grey
> > > Chelmsford, MA USA
> > > peter at audifans.com
> > >
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > S-CAR-List mailing list
> > > S-CAR-List at audifans.com
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> > >
>
>
> Peter Schulz
> 1990 CQ (perpetually awaiting S2 3b engine transplant)
> 1991 200 20v TQW indigo mica
> 1991 200 20v TQW titanium grey
> Chelmsford, MA USA
> peter at audifans.com 