[s-cars] Need Help w G-60 Brake Pad Change

[Peter Schulz]

Steve/Doug:

Oops.

actually, you will need to retract the piston into the caliper, either with 
a piston retractor tool ( glorified bolt with a plate) or a c clamp.
two schools of thought on proceeding -
A( make sure the brake fluid reservoir is not full, turn in tool or c clamp 
and fluid will be forced back up the lines to the reservoir, or
B, put a hose on the bleeder, end of the hose in a container with some 
fluid in it ( to prevent entry of air into the hose) and crack the bleeder 
valve to let the excess brake fluid drain into the container.


Peter


At 12:20 PM 5/10/2004, steve powers wrote:
>there should be another step in between 12 and 13, namely pump up brake
>pedal several times until feel returns. You need to reseat the pistons
>against the pads. Otherwise, you may find yourself without brakes leaving
>your driveway.
>
>Steve
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Peter Schulz" <pcschulz at comcast.net>
>To: "Fifield, Douglas" <Douglas.Fifield at TENNANTCO.com>
>Cc: <s-car-list at audifans.com>
>Sent: Monday, May 10, 2004 7:25 AM
>Subject: Re: [s-cars] Need Help w G-60 Brake Pad Change
>
>
> > Doug:
> >
> > Pretty easy actually.
> >
> > Tools /equipment required:
> >
> > Jack
> > Jackstand
> > 17 mm socket and drive (breaker bar) to remove wheels
> > 13 mm 6 point socket and drive (to remove caliper guide bolt)
> > 15mm narrow open end wrench ( to prevent caliper guide pin from rotating)
> > wire hanger, short bungee cord ( to support caliper and prevent stress on
> > brake line)
> > wire brush ( to clean loctite of guide bolt)
> > loctite blue
> >
> >
> >
> > 1. put car in gear and set ebrake...even better, also put a block
> > ahead/behind the rear wheel on the opposing side of car.
> > 2. loosen lugs ( just loosen -with wheel on ground)
> > 3. Jack up front of car- and put jackstand under it too
> > 4. remove wheel
> > 5.  Loosen Caliper guide pins on caliper - you need a 13mm 6 point socket
> > for the bolt AND an narrow 15mm crescent or open ended wrench for the
> > guide
> > pin ( some folks grind a cheap 15mm open ended wrench, I use a bicycle
> > cone
> > wrench made by Park Tool co, available in most bike shops/
> > 6. Important - when you remove both 13mm bolts on the guidepins, you are
> > freeing the caliper from the caliper carrier, you now need to support the
> > caliper (and NOT by the brake hose!!!!)
> > Use a metal coat hanger, bungee cord, something, to prevent putting stress
> > on the brake hose - I usually use a short bungee cord and hang the caliper
> > from the strut body.  If you jack the ca high enough you could also rest
> > it
> > on a milk crate, box, ,etc,
> > 7. If applicable,. clean the locktite blue off the caliper guide bolts
> > with
> > a wire brush
> > 8. pull the pads upward and out of the carrier - you might need to sand or
> > file some corrosion off the sides where the pads contact the carrier.
> > remove the pad brake wear connector if applicable.
> > 9. Install new pads - if wear sensor is applicable, put that pad on the
> > same side as the one that you removed,. pay attention to the routing of
> > the
> > harness...and reconnect the sensor wire to the car harness.
> > 10. Put the caliper over the pads - ensure that the pad springs are
> > centered in the caliper.
> > 11.  Put a dab of loctite blue on the caliper bolts and tighten them to
> > torque spec in Bentley.
> > 12. reinstall wheel and torque bolts to 81 ft/lbs
> > 13  Remove Jackstand, lower car.
> > 14 Bed in pads using Mfr instructions
> >
> > HTH
> > -Peter
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > At 09:13 AM 5/10/2004, you wrote:
> >
> > >Listers,
> > >
> > >Need to change the front pads on my 95.5 S6 Avant.  Have replacement
> > >pads.
> > >Pulled the wheels but had difficulty reconciling the Bentley diagrams
> > >with
> > >what I saw on the car.  Usually, I feel confident tackling mods and
> > >repairs,
> > >but with brakes, I don't want any mistakes.
> > >
> > >So, I'm asking for help.  If there is anyone in the Minneapolis/St. Paul
> > >area that could lend me a knowledgeable hand, or if there are write-ups
> > >out
> > >there (hopefully with pictures) on how to change the front pads on the
> > >stock
> > >Girling calipers, I would be thankful.
> > >
> > >Have a track date in one week, so time is of the essence.
> > >
> > >TIA,
> > >
> > >Douglas shoeless in MN
> > >95.5 //S6Avant - mine
> > >98 Mercury Mountaineer - her work sled
> > >98 Toyota RAV4 - for sale
> > >73 BMW R60/5 - lonely in the garage
> > >
> > >_______________________________________________
> > >S-CAR-List mailing list
> > >S-CAR-List at audifans.com
> > >http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/s-car-list
> >
> >
> > Peter Schulz
> > 1990 CQ (perpetually awaiting S2 3b engine transplant)
> > 1991 200 20v TQW indigo mica
> > 1991 200 20v TQW titanium grey
> > Chelmsford, MA USA
> > peter at audifans.com
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > S-CAR-List mailing list
> > S-CAR-List at audifans.com
> > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/s-car-list
> >


Peter Schulz
1990 CQ (perpetually awaiting S2 3b engine transplant)
1991 200 20v TQW indigo mica
1991 200 20v TQW titanium grey
Chelmsford, MA USA
peter at audifans.com