[s-cars] Installing New Coil

Varon H. Fugman vfugman at globaldialog.com
Sat Sep 4 17:47:31 EDT 2004


>>Also, I've figured out taking apart the connections at
the firewall, but how the heck do you remove the wire
and connector from the purple plastic thing?  I tried
sliding a very small screwdriver in from the lower
front of the connection.  This seemed to work once
yesterday but I can't get it to work today.

Greg, I had a lot of trouble with these when switching to my spare POS
channel... even after you open the flap on the purple plastic thing, those
pins just don't want to come out.  I got one out with some help from a small
jewler's screwdriver, but I ended up breaking another one in the attempt.

Replacement pin was $7.62 at my local import shop, comes with about 2" of
wire attached to splice into.  The replacement pin doesn't have as many
little catches on it, so it is easier to put in and out.  If the purple flap
is open, it can come out.  If the purple flap is closed, it is held in
place.

>>Thanks to the group and Scott's web site, I have
determined that I need to install a new #1 coil.  It
came today and it comes with 2 long wires.  Do I need
to run these all the way to the connectors at the fire
wall or can I simply solder a splice together to the
existing wiring (much easier, I think).  Will a solder
joint compromise the coil's performance?  I was
thinking about splicing a few inches after the wires
come out on the metal cover.

I would splice into the existing wiring where you described.  A good solder
joint should not impact the coil performance (it will have less resistance
than the plug-in connectors!)  Heat-shrink tubing over the solder joints
would be best.

Varon
'95 S6 using alternate POS channel





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