[s-cars] Igorlights: radio shut-off solved

[Igor Kessel]

Krasusky Paul (WQQ2PXK) wrote:

> Igor illuminated:
> 
> <<<This time around I am replacing the DOT HID projectors with the Euro HID 
> projectors and installing the Euro hight adjuster motors in them. A few
> hours ago 
> I have won the switch on ebay.de so in the end my the lighting of my car
> will be 
> converted to the Euro S6+ spec.
> 

Folks,
I forgot to mention that the problem with the Bose stereo shutting OFF when you 
turn the HIDs ON is now officially solved. No need to install the expensive (ca. 
~$100) 1F capacitor in parallel to the battery in order to filter out the spike of 
the in-rush current.

When you do the HID conversion make sure you wire them as follows:

1. Provide a separate thick gauge +12v lead directly from the source to each 
headlight. The LH side gets it from the <+> on the alternator. The RH side gets it 
from the <+> jump start post. Don't forget to install an in-line fuse into each 
lead. Make sure that you use hermetically sealed water tight fuse holders. I 
personally favour the yellow silicone ones, which I posted several times here on 
the list.

2. Provide a separate thick gauge GND lead directly from the chassis to each 
headlight. The RH side gets it from the threaded post that holds the fuel filter 
bracket. The LH side gets it from the threaded post that holds the black plastic 
bracket on the LH vertical curved member by the headlight. I measured the 
resistance between each of the two posts above and the GND and it fell below 0.1 ohm.
Cut the thin 18AWG brown GND lead off the round 6-pin main plug to the housing and 
solder(!) the thick separate GND lead to the plug side of the brown lead. If you 
decide to install and wire the vertical adjuster motors in order to bring the 
headlights to the full Euro spec as I did in my car you may splice the GND lead of 
the motor to this remaining brown GND lead from the harness side since the 
adjuster motors don't consume all that much current.

Note:
The headlights consume a lot of current thus the utmost attention has be be paid 
to the minimisation of the a) number of wire joints and b) their resistance. 
Otherwise your headlights will be heating up the Universe more than they have to, 
all while diminishing their useful light output and deteriorating the service life 
of the wiring. A hint: the lower grade blue heat-shrink tubing did not like the 
0.5ohm crimped resistance on my 130w H1 Halogen High beam lead, and melted off its 
spade connector over time.
It is imperative that you solder the wires rather than just crimp them together as 
we would normally do in the low current applications.
It is also imperative that you heat-shrink the solder joints rather than just use 
the electric tape for that purpose. I personally prefer the somewhat more 
expensive type of the heat shrink tubing that has glue inside.
I also like to use the black split loom for my harnesses. This is not mandatory 
however. It's just being a perfectionist lunatic I am I like to find myself extra 
work a normal person can do without. :)

-- 
Igor Kessel
http://home.comcast.net/~KBATPO/