[s-cars] Crank Bolt From Hell (lessons learned)

[Southerlin, Russell S]

Qheads,
Well I decided that since I could not confirm when the PO did the timing belt that this would be a good project for the holidays.  With 92K miles I knew I was treading on thin ice if it was the original belt. The belt was partially visible trough a missing piece in the cover and it did not look like a new belt.  The thermostat has been slow to warm up and the water pump probably needed to be replaced as well.

Anyway, things went well until I got to the dreaded crank bolt.  I had a homemade crank bolt holder that I used on my old 5KTQ. It worked well on the 5KTQ. It is a 2 inch to 1 1/2 galvanized pipe fitting that I cut a notch in for the bump in the harmonic balancer.  It fits up inside the harmonic balancer and I use a big pipe wrench with a cheater bar against the floor to back it up.  The 27mm socket then goes down the middle of the fitting to the crank bolt.  

Well first off the crank bolt would not budge using a 1/2 inch breaker bar with a cheater extended out to about 2  ft. under the car.  Then I noticed that my home made holder was bending and had hairline cracks at the cut out.  So I venture down to Ace Hardware and buy a new fitting.  I modify this one by using the fat end and putting cut outs in it for all the little bumps outs in the harmonic balancer (not just the big bump).  I have pictures if anyone is interested.  

So now I figure out that I can apply torque from above since the front bumper is removed and the radiator is pulled aside.  I set things up with my new tool and lean into the 1/2 inch breaker bar with a 4ft. cheater bar and "bam" something gives.  O.K. I split my 1/2 drive 27mm socket (Blackhawk brand - not the best in the world). No big deal - should have know that a 1/2 drive was not big enough for this job.  I decide to try again with the 1/2 drive breaker bar with a better quality socket - SK brand. I set things up with my home made tool and "bam" something gives. I break the 1/2 inch Craftsman breaker bar - the fork around the square drive breaks off!!!   I figure I had a good percentage of my 205lb. weight on the end of the breaker bar with a 4ft extension.  Even if I had 150 lbs at the end of the 4ft bar this would be 600ft-lbs and the crank bolt did not budge!!!!! 

At this point I am at a loss and after putting the water pump and thermostat in I am considering getting the car drivable (minus front bumper) and take it to a garage.  I happen to be talking to a friend that says he has access to a 3/4 drive impact wrench rated to something like 1100ft-lbs - sounds like to ticket but I am a little nervous about using a impact wrench after reading some horror stories.  I get setup with the impact wrench and give it a try and nothing gives. Bolt still won't budge.  I then plumb the impact directly up to the compressor with a short hose and minimal restrictions - still nothing gives.  My friend then suggests that we connect 2 compressor together for maximum air volume.  He brings his compressor over and we plumb 2 compressors (1 20 gallon and 1 30 gallon!!)  together and he cranks the pressure up to 130psi.  We give this a try and low and behold after about 15 seconds of hammering the bolt backs out - what a relief!!!!!!  I am guessing that it took about 800-900 ft-lbs to break that sucker loose!!!!!!!!

At this point I am thinking I am out of the woods so I proceed to get everything to TDC and remove the belt and harmonic balancer.  Upon inspection of the keyway it appears that the key in the crank pulley is skewed and you can see a hairline crack at the base of the key.  Got pictures if anyone is interested.  The crank keyway looks fine - good news here. So a new crank pulley will be required - bummer but things could be worse.  Since it is New Years Day nothing is open.  Tomorrow is Sunday and nothing is open.  I am going out of town on Monday for a week so the car will have to wait until next week - double bummer.

Anyone know a good source for a crank pulley?

Now for the lessons learned.  I believe the safest way to remove the crank bolt is the impact wrench.  I believe if I had continued to apply more torque to the bolt with a bigger breaker bar it would have sheared off the keyway and possibly spun the crank - not a good day no matter how you look at it.  Next time I will acquire a 3/4 inch impact by renting or borrowing.  The impact only applies the force right at the bolt head and it is not reacted through the harmonic balancer and keyway.  The proper tool (3056? tool) or my home made tool reacts the torque through the harmonic balancer and keyway which is not designed to take 800ft-lbs.

Now for installing the crank bolt I think the tool is the way to go.  I can easily apply 350ft-lbs with the tool and not be concerned with breaking the keyway.  BTW - I think my home made tool held up to about 600ft-lbs so 350 ft-lbs should not be a problem.

Russ
95.5 S6
Castle Rock, CO