[s-cars] Questions, again...(rear brakes)

[Eric Phillips]

I do plan to replace the flex lines with SS-braided lines.

Box-end to open the bleeder screw - OK.

Vacuum bleeder also because I plan on doing a clutch bleed.  And because I
bleed my mountain bike disk brakes, and sucking the fluid through is a heck
of a lot easier than pushing it with a syringe.

The job is a multi-part thing:  First, figure out why the passenger rear is
hanging up.  Next - fix that hassle.  Next, replace the bomb (my car doesn't
pass the bomb test - the pedal is rock hard after two strokes.)  Funny, the
light always goes out after about 20 seconds, and it never flickers or comes
on, no matter how hard I brake.  J-hose obstruction???  Needs a hydraulic
fluid flush?

Next, replace rear rotors and season with old pads. (Need guidance - never
seasoned rotors myself.)

Next, replace rear pads (rebuild caliper[s], if necessary, replace cables if
not already done on step one).  Bed in pads (BTDT.)

Fronts, BIRA, Stage 1.

That's the plan.  We'll see how it works out.  :)

Thanks for the jacking advice - I have a neoprene pad for the thing, so
that'll work just fine.

Eric


On 1/9/06, Theodore Chen <tedebearp at yahoo.com> wrote:
>
> replacing calipers doesn't require flare wrenches.  audi
> doesn't run hardline up to the caliper, because the caliper
> moves.  you need the flare wrenches if you replace brake
> flex hoses, which isn't a bad idea given the age of the car.
> be sure to inspect the flex hoses for cracks.  i replaced mine
> with braided steel hose.
>
> i concur with dave on not using an open end wrench to loosen
> the bleeder screw.
>
> i also jack from under the differential as dave indicated,
> with a 1/4" neoprene pad on the saddle of the jack.
>
> -teddy
>
> --- djdawson2 at aol.com wrote:
>
> > Skip the vacuum bleeder, and buy a pressure version.  The cap screws on
> the
> > top of the reservoir... the whole thing is pressurized, and you simply
> crack
> > open the caliper bleeders one at a time.  Must easier... and less mess.
> > Flare wrenches... not needed unless you intend to replace lines or
> calipers.
> > Just don't use an open end wrench on the bleeder screws, or you could
> find
> > yourself in trouble.
> >
> > If you have a floor jack, just go under the car from the center rear,
> and
> > jack in the middle of the rear subframe.  Then put your stands under the
> jack
> > points on either side.  Works fine unless your floor jack is small.
> >
> > If your brakes are stuck to the point of having a real hot rotor after
> > driving, I'd get that handled before warm weather.  If it happens
> constantly,
> > it will eventually wreck the caliper's seals... and then you'll have to
> > replace it.  Not a huge deal, as they aren't real high $, but worth
> pointing
> > out.
> > Have fun,
> > Dave
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Eric Phillips <gcmschemist at gmail.com>
> > To: djdawson2 at aol.com <djdawson2 at aol.com>
> > Cc: kentmclean at mindspring.com; s-car-list at audifans.com
> > Sent: Mon, 9 Jan 2006 11:14:58 -0800
> > Subject: Re: [s-cars] Questions, again...(rear brakes)
> >
> >
> > Yeah, I'd planned on buying the tool.  It'll save me some labor costs in
> the
> > future, enough to pay for itself the first time I use it.  And a vacuum
> > bleeder.  I suppose I'll need some flare wrenches as well?
> >
> > Thanks for the info, and the heads-up on the cable thingy.  The rotors
> do
> > need to be replaced, and the pads are getting there.  But if I can hold
> off
> > on the job until the weather gets warmer, my hands will be happier.  :)
> >
> > Here's another really dumb question - I have a floor jack and some nice
> > jackstands, but if I jack it at the indicated points, where do I put the
> > stands so I don't damage the car?   Am I worried over nothing?  It is a
> > unit-body car, after all...
> >
> > Thanks again,
> >
> > Eric
> >
> >
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> >
>
>
>
>
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