[s-cars] Questions, again...(rear brakes)

[Theodore Chen]

you know, i've never bothered with a pressure or vacuum 
bleeder, for bleeding either brakes or clutch (though
i haven't bled the clutch on the audi).  i don't even do
it with a partner.  i just get in the car and pump the
pedal 8 times, top off the master cylinder, repeat.
there's still fluid in the tubing attached to the bleeder
screws, so fluid will get sucked back in.  and the amount 
of fluid that gets sucked back into the caliper is minimal.
it's far easier for the master cylinder to refill from the
reservoir above it than to pull fluid against gravity
through a long narrow tube with bends in it.

don't sweat the old pads/old rotors/new pads/new rotors
issue.  i never have.

-teddy

--- Eric Phillips <gcmschemist at gmail.com> wrote:

> I do plan to replace the flex lines with SS-braided lines.
> 
> Box-end to open the bleeder screw - OK.
> 
> Vacuum bleeder also because I plan on doing a clutch bleed.  And because I
> bleed my mountain bike disk brakes, and sucking the fluid through is a heck
> of a lot easier than pushing it with a syringe.
> 
> The job is a multi-part thing:  First, figure out why the passenger rear is
> hanging up.  Next - fix that hassle.  Next, replace the bomb (my car doesn't
> pass the bomb test - the pedal is rock hard after two strokes.)  Funny, the
> light always goes out after about 20 seconds, and it never flickers or comes
> on, no matter how hard I brake.  J-hose obstruction???  Needs a hydraulic
> fluid flush?
> 
> Next, replace rear rotors and season with old pads. (Need guidance - never
> seasoned rotors myself.)
> 
> Next, replace rear pads (rebuild caliper[s], if necessary, replace cables if
> not already done on step one).  Bed in pads (BTDT.)
> 
> Fronts, BIRA, Stage 1.
> 
> That's the plan.  We'll see how it works out.  :)
> 
> Thanks for the jacking advice - I have a neoprene pad for the thing, so
> that'll work just fine.
> 
> Eric
> 
> 
> On 1/9/06, Theodore Chen <tedebearp at yahoo.com> wrote:
> >
> > replacing calipers doesn't require flare wrenches.  audi
> > doesn't run hardline up to the caliper, because the caliper
> > moves.  you need the flare wrenches if you replace brake
> > flex hoses, which isn't a bad idea given the age of the car.
> > be sure to inspect the flex hoses for cracks.  i replaced mine
> > with braided steel hose.
> >
> > i concur with dave on not using an open end wrench to loosen
> > the bleeder screw.
> >
> > i also jack from under the differential as dave indicated,
> > with a 1/4" neoprene pad on the saddle of the jack.
> >
> > -teddy
> >
> > --- djdawson2 at aol.com wrote:
> >
> > > Skip the vacuum bleeder, and buy a pressure version.  The cap screws on
> > the
> > > top of the reservoir... the whole thing is pressurized, and you simply
> > crack
> > > open the caliper bleeders one at a time.  Must easier... and less mess.
> > > Flare wrenches... not needed unless you intend to replace lines or
> > calipers.
> > > Just don't use an open end wrench on the bleeder screws, or you could
> > find
> > > yourself in trouble.
> > >
> > > If you have a floor jack, just go under the car from the center rear,
> > and
> > > jack in the middle of the rear subframe.  Then put your stands under the
> > jack
> > > points on either side.  Works fine unless your floor jack is small.
> > >
> > > If your brakes are stuck to the point of having a real hot rotor after
> > > driving, I'd get that handled before warm weather.  If it happens
> > constantly,
> > > it will eventually wreck the caliper's seals... and then you'll have to
> > > replace it.  Not a huge deal, as they aren't real high $, but worth
> > pointing
> > > out.
> > > Have fun,
> > > Dave
> > >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: Eric Phillips <gcmschemist at gmail.com>
> > > To: djdawson2 at aol.com <djdawson2 at aol.com>
> > > Cc: kentmclean at mindspring.com; s-car-list at audifans.com
> > > Sent: Mon, 9 Jan 2006 11:14:58 -0800
> > > Subject: Re: [s-cars] Questions, again...(rear brakes)
> > >
> > >
> > > Yeah, I'd planned on buying the tool.  It'll save me some labor costs in
> > the
> > > future, enough to pay for itself the first time I use it.  And a vacuum
> > > bleeder.  I suppose I'll need some flare wrenches as well?
> > >
> > > Thanks for the info, and the heads-up on the cable thingy.  The rotors
> > do
> > > need to be replaced, and the pads are getting there.  But if I can hold
> > off
> > > on the job until the weather gets warmer, my hands will be happier.  :)
> > >
> > > Here's another really dumb question - I have a floor jack and some nice
> > > jackstands, but if I jack it at the indicated points, where do I put the
> > > stands so I don't damage the car?   Am I worried over nothing?  It is a
> > > unit-body car, after all...
> > >
> > > Thanks again,
> > >
> > > Eric
> > >
> > >
> > > _______________________________________________
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> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > __________________________________________
> > Yahoo! DSL � Something to write home about.
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> >
> >
> 


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