[s-cars] Radiator questions
James Murray (QA/EMC)
james.murray at ericsson.com
Tue Jul 4 09:22:47 EDT 2006
Consider some of the following safety precautions...if "maximum cooling
is paramount";
"Redline WaterWetter" to drop cooling levels
http://www.redlineoil.com/products_coolant.asp
A new T-Stat with lower opening temperature level (circulate more fluid)
A manual switch installed or lower tempurature switch for the
recirculation pump to keep it on when engine off
A bigger oil cooler (example: B&M oil cooler, 8"x12" bar and plate)
/Jamu.
-----Original Message-----
From: s-car-list-bounces at audifans.com
[mailto:s-car-list-bounces at audifans.com] On Behalf Of brian bilotti
Sent: Monday, July 03, 2006 11:35 PM
To: Kevin Day; s-car-list at audifans.com
Subject: Re: [s-cars] Radiator questions
Hey Kevin,
One of the reasons this motor (I'm told) went bad is because it wasn't
getting cooled enough. It was explained to me that 1. our cars weren't
designed for an FMIC and 2. the stock rad is made for a turbo car.
So at a minimum, maximum cooling is paramount...
It was also explained that that "hot spots" can develop in the block.
Possibly one of the reasons my rings and cylinder walls have issues,
hence the need for a new motor. Oh BTW, this motor only has 8k on it :-(
That said, I have an FMIC too and I just don't want the same crap to
happen again.
I welcome anymore comments refuting or confirming this swell news....
Thanks
brian
--- Kevin Day <kday at ultrameta.org> wrote:
> Brian,
>
> I recently replaced my original radiator with an AKG part. The fin
> design is indeed different, and it does look like the original rad.
> was bar and plate and the new one is tube and fin. Mine cost around
> $160 also.
>
> The end tanks on the new radiator look identical to the old ones.
> It seems to work fine, maybe slightly higher temps, but it's hard to
> say since I put an FMIC in front of it when I installed it.
>
> No regrets though. Even if it is slighly inferior (which I don't know
> one way or the other), I'll take a new radiator over a 12 year old
> radiator any day.
>
> -Kevin
>
> On Mon, Jul 03, 2006 at 12:37:32PM -0700, brian bilotti wrote:
> > S-Heads,
> >
> > I'm dropping in a new motor. I got a new radiator
> from
> > World Pac on the last motor build(don't ask). It
> was
> > $160. The dealer charges $360+, the part #'s at
> world
> > pac are the same.
> >
> > It has been suggested that I got a fin and tube radiator and not a
> > bar and plate. Is this BS or possibly correct.
> >
> > I don't want to make the same mistake.
> >
> > Thanks
> > bb
> >
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