[s-cars] Radiator questions

Tue Jul 4 10:31:10 EDT 2006

I second the big oil cooler.  Ever since doing motor #3 (but who's
counting?) on the Evo with UberCooler (25 row 13"x7.5"), I've noticed that
2000 miles later, the oil is still a nice fresh brown color, where with the
stock cooler it would be a bit darker by now.  You might want to get rid of
the oil thermostat if this is a warm weather car, as this will keep
everything running through the cooler all the time.

As for the radiator, I'd look through the Koyo, PWR, Jegs, Summit, etc
catalog and see what kind of aluminum core I can fit in there.  Presumably
something shorter and thicker would be best if the bottom of the core is
going to see the backside of an intercooler.  Although, with some updating
of the FMIC core, this may not be an issue.  On the Evo, I have a huge front
mount and a thicker radiator and with a cooler thermostat, the car comes up
to temp quickly and I haven't seen over 120degF from the oil or 180degF from
the coolant.

The oil cooler is the key, though.  It will keep the block cooler and that
will keep you out of the det zone.  Don't get lured by the huge coolers,
there's a point of diminishing returns.  I like the Setrab stuff over the
Earl's/B&M because of the internal design of the Setrab.  I'm not affiliated
with them in any way, but the tumble area inside the rows lets the fluid
circulate slow enough to get cooled down properly.  Not sure exactly how it
works, I just know that it's slightly larger than the stock Evo cooler and
the oil is 100 degrees cooler.

HTH,
Joe

On 7/4/06, James Murray (QA/EMC) <james.murray at ericsson.com> wrote:
>
> Consider some of the following safety precautions...if "maximum cooling
> is paramount";
>
> "Redline WaterWetter" to drop cooling levels
> http://www.redlineoil.com/products_coolant.asp
> A new T-Stat with lower opening temperature level (circulate more fluid)
> A manual switch installed or lower tempurature switch for the
> recirculation pump to keep it on when engine off
> A bigger oil cooler (example: B&M oil cooler, 8"x12" bar and plate)
>
> /Jamu.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: s-car-list-bounces at audifans.com
> [mailto:s-car-list-bounces at audifans.com] On Behalf Of brian bilotti
> Sent: Monday, July 03, 2006 11:35 PM
> To: Kevin Day; s-car-list at audifans.com
> Subject: Re: [s-cars] Radiator questions
>
> Hey Kevin,
>
> One of the reasons this motor (I'm told) went bad is because it wasn't
> getting cooled enough. It was explained to me that 1. our cars weren't
> designed for an FMIC and 2. the stock rad is made for a turbo car.
>
> So at a minimum, maximum cooling is paramount...
>
> It was also explained that that "hot spots" can develop in the block.
> Possibly one of the reasons my rings and cylinder walls have issues,
> hence the need for a new motor. Oh BTW, this motor only has 8k on it :-(
>
> That said, I have an FMIC too and I just don't want the same crap to
> happen again.
>
> I welcome anymore comments refuting or confirming this swell news....
>
> Thanks
> brian
>
> --- Kevin Day <kday at ultrameta.org> wrote:
>
> > Brian,
> >
> > I recently replaced my original radiator with an AKG part.  The fin
> > design is indeed different, and it does look like the original rad.
> > was bar and plate and the new one is tube and fin.  Mine cost around
> > $160 also.
> >
> > The end tanks on the new radiator look identical to the old ones.
> > It seems to work fine, maybe slightly higher temps, but it's hard to
> > say since I put an FMIC in front of it when I installed it.
> >
> > No regrets though.  Even if it is slighly inferior (which I don't know
>
> > one way or the other), I'll take a new radiator over a 12 year old
> > radiator any day.
> >
> > -Kevin
> >
> > On Mon, Jul 03, 2006 at 12:37:32PM -0700, brian bilotti wrote:
> > > S-Heads,
> > >
> > > I'm dropping in a new motor. I got a new radiator
> > from
> > > World Pac on the last motor build(don't ask). It
> > was
> > > $160. The dealer charges $360+, the part #'s at
> > world
> > > pac are the same.
> > >
> > > It has been suggested that I got a fin and tube radiator and not a
> > > bar and plate. Is this BS or possibly correct.
> > >
> > > I don't want to make the same mistake.
> > >
> > > Thanks
> > > bb
> > >
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>
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