[s-cars] Radiator questions

Tue Jul 4 10:37:43 EDT 2006

Joey, you've probably seen this... but if not it's worth watching...
(AMS Evo content).

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xQyXLV30T2U

Cheers, /Jamu.

________________________________

From: Joe Pizzimenti [mailto:joe.pizzimenti at gmail.com] 
Sent: Tuesday, July 04, 2006 10:31 AM
To: James Murray (QA/EMC)
Cc: brian bilotti; Kevin Day; s-car-list at audifans.com
Subject: Re: [s-cars] Radiator questions

I second the big oil cooler.  Ever since doing motor #3 (but who's
counting?) on the Evo with UberCooler (25 row 13"x7.5"), I've noticed
that 2000 miles later, the oil is still a nice fresh brown color, where
with the stock cooler it would be a bit darker by now.  You might want
to get rid of the oil thermostat if this is a warm weather car, as this
will keep everything running through the cooler all the time.

As for the radiator, I'd look through the Koyo, PWR, Jegs, Summit, etc
catalog and see what kind of aluminum core I can fit in there.
Presumably something shorter and thicker would be best if the bottom of
the core is going to see the backside of an intercooler.  Although, with
some updating of the FMIC core, this may not be an issue.  On the Evo, I
have a huge front mount and a thicker radiator and with a cooler
thermostat, the car comes up to temp quickly and I haven't seen over
120degF from the oil or 180degF from the coolant.

The oil cooler is the key, though.  It will keep the block cooler and
that will keep you out of the det zone.  Don't get lured by the huge
coolers, there's a point of diminishing returns.  I like the Setrab
stuff over the Earl's/B&M because of the internal design of the Setrab.
I'm not affiliated with them in any way, but the tumble area inside the
rows lets the fluid circulate slow enough to get cooled down properly.
Not sure exactly how it works, I just know that it's slightly larger
than the stock Evo cooler and the oil is 100 degrees cooler.  

HTH,
Joe

On 7/4/06, James Murray (QA/EMC) <james.murray at ericsson.com> wrote: 

	Consider some of the following safety precautions...if "maximum
cooling
	is paramount";

	"Redline WaterWetter" to drop cooling levels
	http://www.redlineoil.com/products_coolant.asp
	A new T-Stat with lower opening temperature level (circulate
more fluid)
	A manual switch installed or lower tempurature switch for the
	recirculation pump to keep it on when engine off 
	A bigger oil cooler (example: B&M oil cooler, 8"x12" bar and
plate)

	/Jamu.

	-----Original Message-----
	From: s-car-list-bounces at audifans.com 
	[mailto:s-car-list-bounces at audifans.com] On Behalf Of brian
bilotti
	Sent: Monday, July 03, 2006 11:35 PM
	To: Kevin Day; s-car-list at audifans.com
	Subject: Re: [s-cars] Radiator questions

	Hey Kevin,

	One of the reasons this motor (I'm told) went bad is because it
wasn't
	getting cooled enough. It was explained to me that 1. our cars
weren't 
	designed for an FMIC and 2. the stock rad is made for a turbo
car.

	So at a minimum, maximum cooling is paramount...

	It was also explained that that "hot spots" can develop in the
block.
	Possibly one of the reasons my rings and cylinder walls have
issues, 
	hence the need for a new motor. Oh BTW, this motor only has 8k
on it :-(

	That said, I have an FMIC too and I just don't want the same
crap to
	happen again.

	I welcome anymore comments refuting or confirming this swell
news.... 

	Thanks
	brian

	--- Kevin Day <kday at ultrameta.org> wrote:

	> Brian,
	>
	> I recently replaced my original radiator with an AKG part.
The fin 
	> design is indeed different, and it does look like the original
rad.
	> was bar and plate and the new one is tube and fin.  Mine cost
around
	> $160 also.
	>
	> The end tanks on the new radiator look identical to the old
ones. 
	> It seems to work fine, maybe slightly higher temps, but it's
hard to
	> say since I put an FMIC in front of it when I installed it.
	>
	> No regrets though.  Even if it is slighly inferior (which I
don't know 

	> one way or the other), I'll take a new radiator over a 12 year
old
	> radiator any day.
	>
	> -Kevin
	>
	> On Mon, Jul 03, 2006 at 12:37:32PM -0700, brian bilotti wrote:
	> > S-Heads, 
	> >
	> > I'm dropping in a new motor. I got a new radiator
	> from
	> > World Pac on the last motor build(don't ask). It
	> was
	> > $160. The dealer charges $360+, the part #'s at 
	> world
	> > pac are the same.
	> >
	> > It has been suggested that I got a fin and tube radiator and
not a
	> > bar and plate. Is this BS or possibly correct.
	> >
	> > I don't want to make the same mistake. 
	> >
	> > Thanks
	> > bb
	> >
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