[s-cars] Radiator questions

Tue Jul 4 11:57:46 EDT 2006

Hehe, yes, I've seen that.

That same shop has their silver drag car that's been cutting 1/10ths all
year long.

I think its latest best run has been 9.1 at 162mph.  Yes, that's still a
2.0Lcar, too...but about 9600rpm.  :)

On 7/4/06, James Murray (QA/EMC) <james.murray at ericsson.com> wrote:
>
>  Joey, you've probably seen this... but if not it's worth watching... (AMS
> Evo content).
>
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xQyXLV30T2U
>
> Cheers, /Jamu.
>
>  ------------------------------
> *From:* Joe Pizzimenti [mailto:joe.pizzimenti at gmail.com]
> *Sent:* Tuesday, July 04, 2006 10:31 AM
> *To:* James Murray (QA/EMC)
> *Cc:* brian bilotti; Kevin Day; s-car-list at audifans.com
>
> *Subject:* Re: [s-cars] Radiator questions
>
> I second the big oil cooler.  Ever since doing motor #3 (but who's
> counting?) on the Evo with UberCooler (25 row 13"x7.5"), I've noticed that
> 2000 miles later, the oil is still a nice fresh brown color, where with the
> stock cooler it would be a bit darker by now.  You might want to get rid of
> the oil thermostat if this is a warm weather car, as this will keep
> everything running through the cooler all the time.
>
> As for the radiator, I'd look through the Koyo, PWR, Jegs, Summit, etc
> catalog and see what kind of aluminum core I can fit in there.  Presumably
> something shorter and thicker would be best if the bottom of the core is
> going to see the backside of an intercooler.  Although, with some updating
> of the FMIC core, this may not be an issue.  On the Evo, I have a huge front
> mount and a thicker radiator and with a cooler thermostat, the car comes up
> to temp quickly and I haven't seen over 120degF from the oil or 180degF from
> the coolant.
>
> The oil cooler is the key, though.  It will keep the block cooler and that
> will keep you out of the det zone.  Don't get lured by the huge coolers,
> there's a point of diminishing returns.  I like the Setrab stuff over the
> Earl's/B&M because of the internal design of the Setrab.  I'm not affiliated
> with them in any way, but the tumble area inside the rows lets the fluid
> circulate slow enough to get cooled down properly.  Not sure exactly how it
> works, I just know that it's slightly larger than the stock Evo cooler and
> the oil is 100 degrees cooler.
>
> HTH,
> Joe
>
> On 7/4/06, James Murray (QA/EMC) <james.murray at ericsson.com> wrote:
> >
> > Consider some of the following safety precautions...if "maximum cooling
> > is paramount";
> >
> > "Redline WaterWetter" to drop cooling levels
> > http://www.redlineoil.com/products_coolant.asp
> > A new T-Stat with lower opening temperature level (circulate more fluid)
> > A manual switch installed or lower tempurature switch for the
> > recirculation pump to keep it on when engine off
> > A bigger oil cooler (example: B&M oil cooler, 8"x12" bar and plate)
> >
> > /Jamu.
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: s-car-list-bounces at audifans.com
> > [mailto:s-car-list-bounces at audifans.com] On Behalf Of brian bilotti
> > Sent: Monday, July 03, 2006 11:35 PM
> > To: Kevin Day; s-car-list at audifans.com
> > Subject: Re: [s-cars] Radiator questions
> >
> > Hey Kevin,
> >
> > One of the reasons this motor (I'm told) went bad is because it wasn't
> > getting cooled enough. It was explained to me that 1. our cars weren't
> > designed for an FMIC and 2. the stock rad is made for a turbo car.
> >
> > So at a minimum, maximum cooling is paramount...
> >
> > It was also explained that that "hot spots" can develop in the block.
> > Possibly one of the reasons my rings and cylinder walls have issues,
> > hence the need for a new motor. Oh BTW, this motor only has 8k on it :-(
> >
> > That said, I have an FMIC too and I just don't want the same crap to
> > happen again.
> >
> > I welcome anymore comments refuting or confirming this swell news....
> >
> > Thanks
> > brian
> >
> > --- Kevin Day <kday at ultrameta.org> wrote:
> >
> > > Brian,
> > >
> > > I recently replaced my original radiator with an AKG part.  The fin
> > > design is indeed different, and it does look like the original rad.
> > > was bar and plate and the new one is tube and fin.  Mine cost around
> > > $160 also.
> > >
> > > The end tanks on the new radiator look identical to the old ones.
> > > It seems to work fine, maybe slightly higher temps, but it's hard to
> > > say since I put an FMIC in front of it when I installed it.
> > >
> > > No regrets though.  Even if it is slighly inferior (which I don't know
> >
> >
> > > one way or the other), I'll take a new radiator over a 12 year old
> > > radiator any day.
> > >
> > > -Kevin
> > >
> > > On Mon, Jul 03, 2006 at 12:37:32PM -0700, brian bilotti wrote:
> > > > S-Heads,
> > > >
> > > > I'm dropping in a new motor. I got a new radiator
> > > from
> > > > World Pac on the last motor build(don't ask). It
> > > was
> > > > $160. The dealer charges $360+, the part #'s at
> > > world
> > > > pac are the same.
> > > >
> > > > It has been suggested that I got a fin and tube radiator and not a
> > > > bar and plate. Is this BS or possibly correct.
> > > >
> > > > I don't want to make the same mistake.
> > > >
> > > > Thanks
> > > > bb
> > > >
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