[s-cars] NAC: Garage floor

[Ivan Demkovitch]

Greg,
 
Local store didn't find Concresive 1001 LPL. Should call me back - but he said it's probably discontinued. They will get Masterflow 713 though.
 
Do you have any other crack filler in mind?
 
Thank you,
Ivan

----- Original Message ----
From: Bluemaxww1 at aol.com
To: idemkovitch at yahoo.com; s-car-list at audifans.com
Sent: Thursday, February 23, 2006 5:58:16 PM
Subject: Re: [s-cars] NAC: Garage floor


Hi,
You need to chip the area around the broken area to make sure you don't have any loose concrete in it.  Then you use a material called Masterflow 713 grout.  It is non-shrinking and hold up very well.  One added it to add adhesion to this patch, is paint the chipped area with the Concresive and while it is stick wet or tacky, apply the Masterflow.  Don't make it too wet, so it will stand up instead of trying to level out.  Nether the Concresive or Masterflow have a lot of set up time.  So you need to be ready to work it.
 
I would do a Google search to find both these products near you.
 
Greg W.
 
In a message dated 2/23/2006 3:10:42 P.M. Pacific Standard Time, idemkovitch at yahoo.com writes:
Good advices!

Where do I even get this Concresive 1001 LPL ?

Also, I have a problem with garage entry. Concrete chipped badly. Is there any way to fix that permanently? Or at least for 5 years or so?

----- Original Message ----
From: Bluemaxww1 at aol.com
To: idemkovitch at yahoo.com; s-car-list at audifans.com
Sent: Thursday, February 23, 2006 5:04:50 PM
Subject: Re: [s-cars] NAC: Garage floor


Hi,
It all comes down to prep work just like painting a car.

When you place concrete, it forms a film on the top basically sealing the concrete.  You want to remove this.

The best way to make any paint stick to concrete is to create what they call a profile on the surface you are applying the epoxy to. In creating a profile, you are roughing up the surface you are going to paint. Sanding concrete won't work well and is time comsuming.   Profiling the concrete creates small ridges in the concrete, increasing the surface tension area to be coated.  

I would get a small chipping gun, get a small gad, that looks like a meat tenderizer, and run this over the whole are of the floor.  This will give you a great profile for surface tension for the epoxy.

By the way, this is how we do the concrete floors in the power plants for the Power Utility I work for.  These floors get a lot more abuse than your garage ever would.  All comes down to prep.  I will let some else advise you on the epoxy to use, because the stuff we use is over 300 dollars a gallon.

As for cracks, use Concresive 1001 LPL.  This works great on cracks.  Just mix up as much as you want, two parts, like in a paper cup or a grout bag.  Just pour or squeeze it into the cracks.  Of course, it will fill up any void you have under the concrete, so you could use quite a bit if you have a large void under the crack.  You could also coat your entire floor with this stuff, but it would cost you your right arm.  We sometimes use it to line clay pipe, if fluid seeps through,  It seals the inside of the pipe.

There are also come concrete crack injection systems on the market you could try.

Greg W.
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