[s-cars] Intermittent cutout

[chris chambers]

Bob,

I had a similiar experience many years ago with an 85 Audi 5000s.

Finally figured out that the catalyctic converter had failed and
the internal parts were loose. When I braked hard or turned at just
the right angle at just the right speed the parts would block the
exhaust gas flow through the converter and stall the car.

Could this be your problem, I don't know.....but just in case I
figured I would let you know.

Good luck

Chris




--- Robert Myers <bob at chips-ur-s.com> wrote:

> 
> More data, Taka.  I swapped the FP relay into the car from my running
> 
> urS6.  Engine firfed right up and I went for a two mile drive.  Got 
> back home and parked the car and left it idling.  Came back after a 
> few minutes and the engine was dead.  It again fired right up so I 
> went for the two mile run again.  As I drove into my driveway the 
> engine died and would not restart.  At least not quickly.  I needed 
> to get the car out of the way so my wife could get out so I put it in
> 
> gear and operated the starter.  The car moved about 6 inches and the 
> engine started.  I backed the car into the garage and let it 
> idle.  It died again but started right up when I tried it.  I let it 
> idle and the engine stopped agaim and this time would not start
> easily.
> 
> I pulled the codes using VAG-COM.  Got these codes:
> 00561 - Mixture Adaptation
>          14-00 - Adaptation Limit (Add) Exceeded
> 00537 - Lambda (Oxygen Sensor) Regulation
>          08-10 - Control Limit Surpassed - Intermittent
> 00519 - Intake Manifold Pressure Sensor (G71)
>          17-10 - Control Difference - Intermittent
> 00513 - Engine Speed Sensor (G28)
>          03-00 - No Signal
> 
> Speed sensor makes sense - engine was dead.
> Cleared codes.  Started engine.  Engine died.  Pulled codes again 
> immediately.  Nothing.  No codes.  Attempted to start engine.  CEL 
> came on.  Pulled codes again and got only the 00513 code.
> 
> Put wife behind wheel.  I climbed into the trunk with a flashlight 
> and my DMM.  Measured voltage across FP.  Zero.  Told wife to crank 
> engine.  Voltage rose to ~11.7 or so volts and then engine fired and 
> voltage went to a rock steady 13.58 volts and held there until engine
> 
> died again (and voltage dropped to zero) after perhaps a minute.  She
> 
> cranked again and engine restarted with same sequence of voltage 
> measurements.  Engine died again.  Attempted restart - no 
> soap.  Voltage went to and held at about 11.8 volts while cranking 
> and dropped to zero after stopping cranking.
> 
> In a while I will be going to FLAPS looking for a fuel pressure 
> gauge.  I'll be driving the other S6.
> 
> OK, what's next?  Chants and incantations to the Audi gods?  Would 
> you like to volunteer to serve as the required ritual sacrifice?  ;-)
> 
> 
> At 08:04 AM 9/5/2006, Taka Mizutani wrote:
> >Bob-
> >Check the voltage that your fuel pump is getting- one possibility 
> >that I think Dave Forgie has found in other S-cars is that the fuel 
> >pump doesn't get a full 14.4V and thus can't work to its full
> potential.
> >
> >If the pump has low voltage and then tries to deliver, I could see 
> >that you could kill the pump by it trying to run at 100% all the 
> >time due to lack of sufficient voltage.
> >
> >Taka
> >
> >On 9/3/06, Robert Myers
> <<mailto:bob at chips-ur-s.com>bob at chips-ur-s.com> wrote:
> >
> >The fuel pump is brand spanking new - two weeks in the car.  It is
> >the second new fuel pump in two months.  :-(  Now, why would my car
> >be killing fuel pumps?  Fuel in tank looks OK and no significant
> >amount of debris in the tank.
> >
> >No virus found in this incoming message.
> >Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> >Version: 7.1.405 / Virus Database: 268.11.7/437 - Release Date:
> 9/4/2006
> 
> 
> Bob
> urS6 with RS2 and other mods for sale: http://chips-ur-s.com/S6.html
> 
> 
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> 


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