[s-cars] Off with the drive shaft-finished

[Tom Green]

Wow, outstanding report, Mark.  It is great information that a lot
of guys will find useful, since you can't make that old grease last
forever.

I bought 3 of the Meyle tanks based on the 50% price differential
from the OEM.  The oldest about 2 years and the newest about 2
months without issue except I bought CRP caps also which are
crap--all leaked pressure after shutdown.  I now have 2 OEM and
one Jost cap that are performing as designed.  A couple of listers
have reported seam failure in the aftermarket tanks (brand unknown)
and others reported poor rubber quality in suspension bushings from
Meyle.

<www.partsquick.com> has a Meyle tank with some information from
the manufacturer on their tanks.  I don't know how valid it is, but it
reads well.  They sent me a direct mail ad so I order a few things
from them--good prices and prompt shipping--no other affiliation.

Tom

-----Original message-----
> Date: Mon, 09 Apr 2007 11:03:57 -0500
> From: Mark Turczyn <mkturczyn at verizon.net>
> Subject: [s-cars] Off with the drive shaft-finished
> To: <s-car-list at audifans.com>
> Message-ID: <p0621026cc240072caf7a@[192.168.1.67]>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed
>
>
> Drive shaft shutter and now cracked expansion tank-
>
> The driveline shutter and banging ended Sat.   I replaced the front
> drive shaft CV joint in place using the Porsche CV joint # 923 332
> 03200 which I  bought for $75 from one of the after market houses.
> It is a 25 spline, 100 mm diameter CV jont.
>
> Thanks to the listers who gave confirmed that this was the correct
> replacement CV joint.
>
> I did it on my back with the front up on tall ramps.  I replaced all
> of the exhaust bolts since they were rusted away and used new CV
> socket head bolts.
>
> To begin with-- I removed the six socket head 8 mm x 48 mm bolts
> along with the three plates that pair them up.  I was able to do this
> without rotating the drive shaft by using a long wobble extension and
> a a 6 mm allen socket to get the top ones.
>
> I used a two arm T style puller to pull off the old CV joint.  First
> I pushed back the rubber boot by tapping on the metal cap with a flat
> screw driver--the boot is bonded to this metal cap that fits on the
> end of the CV joint.  Since mine was good I kept it on the drive
> shaft.
>
> Then you remove the C clip at the end of the shaft---keep it because
> the replacement clip is too thick.
>
>   Normally you want the arms of the puller to  pull on  the inner race
> of the CV joint --to do that you rotate the outer race and the balls
> fall out and you are left with the inner race on the shaft.
>
> My CV joint was so stiff I could not get it to rotate enough to get
> the old balls out and remove the outer race so I just cranked on the
> puller which eventually broke the ball separator so the CV joint fell
> apart-- and I was left with just the inner race on the shaft.   I
> readjusted the arms inward and grabbed the inner race and cranked.
> The inner race fought hard but eventually came off.
>
> I cleaned up the splines  and the rubber boot and then packed the new
> CV joint with synthetic, molly CV grease.  I also packed a bit into
> the rubber boot.
>
> I  tapped on the new CV---well it was much more then tapping.  I hard
> tapped and then had to use a socket to drive it the rest of the way
> to clear the shaft.  I did not like the amount of hard tapping that
> was required so at the 2/3 down level I pulled it off with my puller
> and examined the splines to be sure I was not tearing up the shaft or
> the CV joint.  They both were very clean and straight.  It looks like
> the new CV splines are a bit more rounded so they have more of an
> interference fit then I would expect.  I was expecting a nice slip
> fit.
>
> I used new socket head bolts after I found out that at the 41 foot
> pound torque requirement my allen head would start to round the
> socket heads so I decided to use new crisp bolts.  Also the new ones
> have locking compound in the threads so you do not have to try to get
> the liquid thread locker to stick to the now greasy CV threads.
>
> I installed new tranny mounts while I was on my back, reinstalled the
> exhaust system and went for a ride.-- now shutter and the ole RS2'ed
> Avant felt even faster- and a bit louder on boost for some reason.
>
>
>
>
> So that problem is solved and a new minor issue came up.  After a few
> hard runs I came back home and the water temp did not seem to be
> holding-- assumed a bad T stat.  Popped the hood and steam coming
> through new cracks on the top of the expansion tank.
>
> Question-- I see two tanks offered on the after market sites- a first
> line (Myle ?) for about $40 and a no name for a bout $52.  I assume I
> should get the more expensive tank?  Anyone have experience-- I think
> a saw a few posts back a month or so.
>
> Any opinions on the tank to buy?
>
> Thanks again and I hope my short write up helps someone.
>
>
> -- 
> Mark Turczyn
>
>
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> End of S-CAR-List Digest, Vol 42, Issue 27
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