[s-cars] Off with the drive shaft-finished

[Sean Douglas]

Very nice write-up Mark!

You have inspired me to do mine, can you provide the name of the CV joint 
supplier?

Am I correct in assuming you left the center support attached? Or did you pull 
the entire driveshaft out?

Thanks,

Sean D.

Quoting Mark Turczyn <mkturczyn at verizon.net>:

> 
> Drive shaft shutter and now cracked expansion tank-
> 
> The driveline shutter and banging ended Sat.   I replaced the front 
> drive shaft CV joint in place using the Porsche CV joint # 923 332 
> 03200 which I  bought for $75 from one of the after market houses. 
> It is a 25 spline, 100 mm diameter CV jont.
> 
> Thanks to the listers who gave confirmed that this was the correct 
> replacement CV joint.
> 
> I did it on my back with the front up on tall ramps.  I replaced all 
> of the exhaust bolts since they were rusted away and used new CV 
> socket head bolts.
> 
> To begin with-- I removed the six socket head 8 mm x 48 mm bolts 
> along with the three plates that pair them up.  I was able to do this 
> without rotating the drive shaft by using a long wobble extension and 
> a a 6 mm allen socket to get the top ones.
> 
> I used a two arm T style puller to pull off the old CV joint.  First 
> I pushed back the rubber boot by tapping on the metal cap with a flat 
> screw driver--the boot is bonded to this metal cap that fits on the 
> end of the CV joint.  Since mine was good I kept it on the drive 
> shaft.
> 
> Then you remove the C clip at the end of the shaft---keep it because 
> the replacement clip is too thick.
> 
>   Normally you want the arms of the puller to  pull on  the inner race 
> of the CV joint --to do that you rotate the outer race and the balls 
> fall out and you are left with the inner race on the shaft.
> 
> My CV joint was so stiff I could not get it to rotate enough to get 
> the old balls out and remove the outer race so I just cranked on the 
> puller which eventually broke the ball separator so the CV joint fell 
> apart-- and I was left with just the inner race on the shaft.   I 
> readjusted the arms inward and grabbed the inner race and cranked. 
> The inner race fought hard but eventually came off.
> 
> I cleaned up the splines  and the rubber boot and then packed the new 
> CV joint with synthetic, molly CV grease.  I also packed a bit into 
> the rubber boot.
> 
> I  tapped on the new CV---well it was much more then tapping.  I hard 
> tapped and then had to use a socket to drive it the rest of the way 
> to clear the shaft.  I did not like the amount of hard tapping that 
> was required so at the 2/3 down level I pulled it off with my puller 
> and examined the splines to be sure I was not tearing up the shaft or 
> the CV joint.  They both were very clean and straight.  It looks like 
> the new CV splines are a bit more rounded so they have more of an 
> interference fit then I would expect.  I was expecting a nice slip 
> fit.
> 
> I used new socket head bolts after I found out that at the 41 foot 
> pound torque requirement my allen head would start to round the 
> socket heads so I decided to use new crisp bolts.  Also the new ones 
> have locking compound in the threads so you do not have to try to get 
> the liquid thread locker to stick to the now greasy CV threads.
> 
> I installed new tranny mounts while I was on my back, reinstalled the 
> exhaust system and went for a ride.-- now shutter and the ole RS2'ed 
> Avant felt even faster- and a bit louder on boost for some reason.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So that problem is solved and a new minor issue came up.  After a few 
> hard runs I came back home and the water temp did not seem to be 
> holding-- assumed a bad T stat.  Popped the hood and steam coming 
> through new cracks on the top of the expansion tank.
> 
> Question-- I see two tanks offered on the after market sites- a first 
> line (Myle ?) for about $40 and a no name for a bout $52.  I assume I 
> should get the more expensive tank?  Anyone have experience-- I think 
> a saw a few posts back a month or so.
> 
> Any opinions on the tank to buy?
> 
> Thanks again and I hope my short write up helps someone.
> 
> 
> -- 
> Mark Turczyn
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