[s-cars] Oil Pressure

[calvinlc at earthlink.net]

>The later cars don't even have an oil pressure gage, Floyd, so I
wouldn't worry

Yeah, except I found out the hard way that running without an oil pressure
gauge can cost you lots of dollars when an oil pump bolt backed out on me
over time.  If I had an oil pressure gauge I would have noticed the pressure
drops on stops, etc. and I could have saved myself a lot of
headache....instead I had to rebuild the engine.  Ever since then I always
run with oil pressure gauges.  For non-modified cars I agree it is less
important, but still way more important than a stinkin voltmeter that the
newer cars replaced the oil pressure gauge with.

--Calvin


-----Original Message-----
From: s-car-list-bounces at audifans.com
[mailto:s-car-list-bounces at audifans.com]On Behalf Of Tom Green
Sent: Thursday, August 02, 2007 10:24 AM
To: s-car-list; floyd.noel at gmail.com
Subject: Re: [s-cars] Oil Pressure


The later cars don't even have an oil pressure gage, Floyd, so I
wouldn't worry
much.  IIRC, the spec is 1.8 bar minimum at idle, and the oil
pressure warning
  light is operated by a 1.2 bar switch.  Since the Corps generally
likes hot and
swampy places I assume you are in a relatively warm place, and are
using an
oil grade appropriate to the temperature (chart in owners manual).
My own
recommendation is a synthetic 15-50 or 15-40, and will affect the oil
pressure
readings.   I wouldn't use the 0-30 or 5-30 grades that are designed
for newer
engines unless you get sent to Alaska this winter.

I can only wonder what grade oil was in the car if the oil gage
didn't move.

I wouldn't recommend the quick-stop places for fluid changes.  They
tend to
use machines that "clean" and re-use the coolant.  Audi recommends a
phosphate free, silicate free coolant, and there are so many
different types out
there for specific vehicles, I just use the Audi or Pentosin brand
German fluid.
Just don't mix different coolants even of the same brand.  The more
expensive
German brands don't amount to much more expense if your system doesn't
leak and you keep a spare bottle available.

The all wheel drive has the front transmission-differential combined
and a
separate rear differential that require different fluids.

If you can find the time to educate yourself on maintenance
requirements,
you could probably have the base hobby shop do some of these things with
some specific directions from you, or DIY.  There are some good
things to
know before you put yourself at the mercy of a mechanic.

http://audifans.com/    (Knowledge Base and FAQ)  (Marketplace for
parts,etc)

http://www.sjmautotechnik.com/   ( has a great help section, sells
parts online)

http://forums.audiworld.com/s4s6/msgs/149764.phtml

http://www.s-cars.org/postnuke/    (See the FAQ and downloads in site
features
You don't have to download anything to just read the pdf articles)

Tom

> Date: Tue, 31 Jul 2007 21:56:09 -0700
> From: "Floyd Noel" <floyd.noel at gmail.com>
> Subject: [s-cars] Oil Pressure
> To: s-car-list at audifans.com
> Message-ID:
> 	<b7342e130707312156x64f55a9avf09a5d1b2df949e1 at mail.gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
>
> Hello all,
> I've owned my 93 S4 for a couple of months now, and I just got my oil
> changed for the first time. Before the oil change, the oil pressure
> gauge never moved once the car was started. Now, it goes anywhere from
> 2 bar to 5 bar depending on engine speed. Which is correct? Should it
> move all the time, or not? TIA, I appreciate your help. I'm in the
> Marine Corps and at a time-consuming school right now, so I don't have
> much time for these things. Also, should I let any old oil changing
> place flush my radiator fluid, diff, etc? I'm pretty sure the previous
> owner hadn't done any of those in a while.
> Sgt Noel, USMC

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