[s-cars] Rear end squeak

[Robert Myers]

Results from hand application of grease and several miles of driving 
to allow the gre4ase to diffuse into the actual joints:  The 
continual squeaking from low grade bumps is gone.  Traversing speed 
bumps, however, remains noisy but with a much different quality to the noise.

If anyone could point toward a set of improved Heim links it would be helpful.

Bob

At 09:37 AM 11/2/2007, chris chambers wrote:
>I would suggest that it's more likely the noise is coming from
>your rear control arms. jack up the car and holding the top and
>bottom of the tire push and pull the top and bottom of the tire
>and I bet you have some play there.
>
>I'd recommend replacing them before your tires start to show wear.
>Won't cost much for the parts, and it's a DIY job.
>
>Make sure you have the larger socket that is required for the job
>AND get an alignment done on your car immediately.
>
>HTH
>Chris
>
>
>
>--- Robert Myers <robert at s-cars.org> wrote:
>
> >
> > Hi Y'all,
> >
> > My urS6 has developed a nasty squeak in the rear end.  It comes from
> > both sides but the driver's side is making more noise.  The noise is
> > particularly objectionable when crossing a parking lot speed bump but
> >
> > it is there with every little bump in the road.  I think I have
> > traced the squeak to rusted Heim links of the HRSB installed in the
> > car.  I have pulled both rear wheels, sprayed the Heim link friction
> > points with Kroil and then rubbed some grease into ("onto" is
> > probably a better word here)  them.  I'm hoping that the grease will
> > work it's way inside the links and quiet the squeaking.  Is there a
> > better way to accomplish this lube job?  I didn't pull the links and
> > work on them on the bench since I don't have a lift and getting both
> > wheels off the ground is awkward.  I can do that, if necessary, but
> > would prefer not to if I don't have to.
> >
> > BTW, has anyone sourced a different Heim link for this
> > application?  The originals are adjustable only by removing the link
> > from at least one end since the "adjustor" has only right hand
> > threads on each end.  Right and left hand threads would allow in situ
> >
> > adjustment.
> >
> > Bob
> >
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> >
>
>
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