No subject

noise restrictor built into it - the J hose does not need this (and I am
running a rebuilt J hose from SJM without any noise problem).=20
=20
As Tom advised, check the pump by removing the J hose and rack hose
individually and manually turning the pump after removing each - if its
an internal pump problem it should still exhibit the same problem.  You
might be able to isolate if a particular hose is blocked; also check the
banjo bolts again for additional debris when you remove a hose from the
pump.  Might want to also look at the one on the bomb, although doing so
at the rack may be way too tough unless really necessary (never had to
do this one, but I've heard its a bear).
=20
Good luck - I'm sure there's an answer to the symptoms that'll seem
logical once you find it, but it many not be trivial to find or fix
it...
=20
-Randy
'95.5 S6A

________________________________

From: Aaron Ryba [mailto:aaronryba at yahoo.com]=20
Sent: Thursday, May 29, 2008 12:57 PM
To: Tom Green
Cc: s-car-list; McCall, Randy
Subject: Re: [s-cars] Power steering pump resistance?


Randy, you are correct on the typo. Just trying to keep things
intersting here!
=20
When I had the hoses disconnected, IIRC specifically the J hose that
leads to the brake pressure accumulator/bomb the pump turned without any
resistance. After some thought I think the problem may be the pressure
release valve or the check valve in the bomb that is malfunctioning.
The reservior seems to have adequate fluid which does not change often
after sitting overnight (leaky relief valve) or overflow. There is
adequate brake pressure and the brake pressure light has only come on
once or so after the car had been sitting for a week or two without
driving. Here me out....

When I replaced the original high pressure hoses with new Spokane HOH
ones there was some debris in the integrated filters in the banjo bolts
and in the reservior filter too which I cleaned out upon flushing the
system.
=20
My thought is that there is some debris stuck in either the relief valve
or the check valve of the accumulator/bomb that is making operation
difficult. Most likely it is the relief valve (where the hydro fluid
would be passing though most of the time when brake pressure is
adequate) that is the culprit (?). Correct me if I am wrong. Perhaps the
debris is not causing the valve to fully malfuntion either in closed or
open position but just more difficult to operate thus the increased back
pressure on the power steering pump and then on the belt tensioner
pulley.
=20
IIRC the hoses went bad after I replaced the bomb with a newer unit, so
the debris could have lodged in at that point.
=20
I did notice that upon installing the new HOH lines there is some whine
noise from the pump, mostly noticeable from the interior. I called HOH
and made sure that they did keep the restrictor in the new hose build. I
assumed this noise was just how the new hose functioned or perhaps some
damage that had been done to the pump when the old hoses broke and some
debris passed though. I now think it could be caused by the additional
load put on the pump by this malfunctioning release valve.
=20
The tensioner is only about a year old and upon removing it and
inspection the bearing and the spring both seem to be in proper working
condition. The belt which is new also looks good and shows no sign of
stretching (measurement confirmed). I think the tensioner is exhibiting
this clicking noise due to the added load on the system via the
pump/check valve issue. The belt & tensioner operate smoothly at higher
rpm but at idle with some load on the engine (turning steering or AC on)
I do notice the tensioner rattle when the clicking noise is made. It is
exhibiting the same behavior the old one did before I replaced it along
with the pump, hoses, filters, banjo bolts fluid & swapped out the bomb.
=20
If I had access to another 20vt car I could swap out the tensioner and
bomb easily to see if those parts work properly but I don't think that
is an option here down in Spartanburg SC!
=20
I did replace the original bomb with a newer one about 9 months ago and
my low brake pressure problem went away. I though about swaping the old
one back in to see what happens to the pump backpressure situation but
since the unit was malfunctioning already it may be hard to determine
any reliable difference.
=20
The best solution I think is to have a pressure testor hooked up to the
brake servo as Bentley suggests. I guess that means taking it to the a
shop and spending some $$ which is probably cheaper than buying the tool
myself (VAG 1441 $318) or purchasing a new bomb (if that is even the
problem).
=20
One last thought is that perhaps the newly fabricated J-hose by Spokane
HOH with the integrated origianl restrictor could be the culprit.
However my understanding is that Spokane is somewhat of an authority on
rebuilding these things and it would be strange that I am the only user
who has experienced this problem.
=20
Hopefully the lenght of my response here doesn't imply that I have found
a solution. Please reply with any other comments you may have. This is
bugging the heck out of me!
=20
Aaron